Gran BretaÑa

The bigining...

2008-09-16T08:37:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am in Horsham, 17 April Close, the flat where I lived for 3 months before starting my walk.

Back to reality and civilization felt great- seeing lots of frineds that I had not met in the whole summer, and seeing Horsham again, a place that I love.

However, back to civilization means back to reality too. I haven´t got a job, or a place to live (unless I pitch my tent in Horsham park, that is a big NO NO).

So, I need to think what to do with the rest of my life. Where do I want to live, and work?

I should say that I have been lucky enough (very lucky actually) to have been offered a job just on arrival, so I should not complain,... I don´t.

It is actually quite exciting: having nothing means that I can look for my life anywhewere I want, and that I can potencially do what i please. But, also, there is uncertanty, and sometimes feels a bit scary. But nothing serious to be honest.

Blisters, numb and sore back, wet, a bit cold sometimes, stiffness, tiredness. I did the walk, I took each step, and another one... But actually, it would not have been possible without the huge support from many of you. Weel. Actually, all of you.

I mean, I really enjoyed hearing and reading your feedback about my blog. You said you liked the pictures, and I think it made you laugh sometimes! Your comments on the blog really motivated me to make a small effort and do a good job of it. I am happy with the result.

That is one thing, one way of support, but there are others, other people that have always been there for me.

First of all my father, mother and sister. Got a call almost everyday!! Then those who joined me for a few days: Lyndon, Karen, Phil, Dyeison, Jez and Dan. Day family, Paco and Will, and that weekend in Ripon. My friends in Spain that called me regularly. Those who generously made some room at their places so that I could have a place to leave my stuff, Ian and Linda, Jeremi, Elena, Julien, Toni and Alicia. And then the people that I met... too many, but I should mention all of you that I met in Fort William (Manchester people, Gaemme and Lorraine family), Alex and its cricket ball, my West Highland Way mates... as I said too many to name everybody.

Thank you very much to everyone.

How many miles?, I was asked more than once.... here is the walk in numbers:

2 countries, 1 crazy walker with his rucksack, tent, matress and sleeping bag. 1 poncho, 2 T-shirts, 2 underpants (kept proplerly clean), 4 pairs of socks, 1 stove with its gas canister, 2 pair of boots, 3 deers, 45 OS maps, 60 cans of fish, 50 cans of creamy Anbrosia rice pudding, around 10 kgr of chocolate, 8 kgr of chocolate biscuits, 200 litres of beer, and some wine and whiskey and cider too, 15 blisters. 100 days, 1000 miles, 2000000 (that´s two million) steps.

And 125978345000 midges (that´s... a hell of a lot!)

That was all. Thank you very much for reading me. I have a fantastic time in your company.

All the best.

Carlos

;)

I've never been to John O'Groats...

2008-09-11T01:18:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

It's Thursday and Karen and I are in Thurso. Yesterday, just after noon, we arrived to Dunnet head, the most northerly point in Britain.

I have finished the walk.

Phoebe's brother liked melting things. I like silage...

I left tongue on Sunday after having had a couple of well deserved rest days. Just after leaving Tongue, a couple of motorists stopped to give a donation, and then we had a coffe and a chocolate together in the shop a few yards down the road. They were riding the whole coast of Britain, also for charity.

David and Graemme, Riding Britain!

The walk to Bettyhill, a place where i already had been to update the blog, was not nothing special. Mainly cloudy day, I walked on a road that run parallel to the coast through a heather peaty desert.

Even a bleak scenery gives picture opportunities.

The walk was short, and after arriving a quickly pitching the tent i went for a swim in Bettyhill swimming pool. Had dinner, and yes, straight to the pub. The bar at Bettyhill hotel is not, I would say, the centre of the universe (that would be near Geneva, the CERN and the LHC), but interesting things and people happen everywhere.

There I met Graemme and Sarah. We spoke about many things, and solved some world problems. I also had some whiskey lessons. Interesting. Don, see below, joined for the philosophical and historical part of the chat. The guy, lucky bastard, was snogged, not long time ago, by Rosie Swale-Pope, the 62 years old Welsh woman that run around the world in five years. Legend!!

Graemme and Sarah.

Donald McLeod McKenzie. You don't get it much more Highlander than that!!

I found Graemme a fascinating individual. He is the first only British person that I met. He is not Welsh, or Scottish or English, he feels British. Borned in Wales, grew up in Scotland, and married an English woman form Wigan, where they live now. They were cycling form LE to JOG.

On Monday I was supposed to meet Karen in Melvick. I had the best day in terms of weather since I am in Scotland. Sunny, with not much wind. I bought something for breakfast, and the newspaper, and decided to have a look at Bettyhill's beach. Nice one, crystal clear water, and freezing cold too, I assumed. Anyway, the day was too nice, and the water looked like too attractive to miss this one, so i put the swimming suit on, and there I go...

Me before getting in the water...

...and me after:

It was painfully cold indeed!

After recovering normal temperature, I had a short run on the sand and had breakfast and read the newspaper. I had a fantastic morning.

Bettyhill beach

I continued to walk on the same road. More bleak landscape, but it really looked much nicer: the sun makes a big difference. And then, suddenly, I could see Dunnet Head (and the Ockney Islands, Hoy?) in the distance. Exciting moment!

They are very faint in this image, but Dunnet Hd. and the Ockneys are in the background.

The sun lasted the whole day, but it became more windy. Melvick campsite was much better than the one in Bettyhill, and the pub next to it was good too. Worth mention the owner: massive 60 years old guy; when I ordered the first pint i thought he was giving half, his hands were massive!!

Bueno, habra que probarlo entonces. Pongame un forsale, bien hecho por favor...

Karen arrived to Melvick just before dusk, we pitched her tent (carefully, as the field was full of sheep shit) and had a nice dinner, and, a few drinks. Special mention to the lasagna I had.

On Tuesday we walked from Melvick to Thurso. More bleak landscape, but the heather moorland was slowly replaced by more and more fields. The weather was not great, and although we had some sunny spells in the beginning of the day, it eventually became quite gloomy and windy too.

Karen. She sees the funny side in a rest moment!

We walked by Dounreay dismantled nuclear power plant, and guessed, before getting to the top of each hill, that we would see Thurso from it. The road became increasingly busy as we approached the town, and became increasingly unxious about getting there and having a rest

Karen, arriving to Thurso

We had a bit of light rain before getting to the hostel. Cleaning duties, and pub time. Nice meal, special mention to the Caesar salad I had, drinks, and i beat Karen once playing pool, and then let her win a couple of times...

Thurso, in a nice morning.

Yesterday, Wednesday, we started walking just after 9. The sun was shining, but it was quite windy. The first of yesterday's walk was a bit of a pain: six miles of straight busy road to Castletown. After that, we walked on the sand of Dunnet Bay beach from where we could almost touch Dunnet Head at the other side of the water.

Karen and me. Dunnet Head in the background from Dunnet Bay sands.

We had a rest before taking the last bit of road that would take us through Brough, and all the way to the end of this long walk. Grey clouds began to appear, and looked like that the 2pm rain forecast was going to be spot on. "I think we'll see the light house from the next hill..., by the way, I really don't want to walk all the way back to Thurso..." We then began to count the cars going passing us to and from the light house.... "will we get a lift back?"

Karen Dunnet. She is at home!

Once into Dunnet Head Peninsula, more moorland, buzzers in the sky, and blue/grey freezing sea between mainland and the Ockneys.

Almost there!

I was looking forward to finish, specially the last few days. I did not know what to expect, what i was going to feel. Suddenly, top of the next hill, and there it is, the light house just 200 yards away.

Almost there!!!

I looked back, in more than one way. I remembered the south-west, in that country called England. I used to imagine, an eternity ago, how will it be?, what will I feel?

We made it!!!!

I felt very happy. As simple as that. No deep life defining emotions. Simple and sheer happiness.

Just when we arrived, it began raining. Just for ten minutes, the time that took to do the pictures and briefly celebrate (we shared some chocolate). We got a lift. Back in Thurso I got a call from the news channel of the Spanish national radio, and made and interview :)

Celebration time.

Shower, and very nice meal at and Indian. One if those times when you don't only fill the stomach, but the spirit too. We had the first drink in a sport cafe, where we saw Scotland beat Iceland, and England winning 4-1 to Croatia (impressed). Then we had the rest in another pub where they were playing live traditional Scottish music. nice!

And more celebration!

We were very tired, early to bed.

Today, Karen is nicely giving me a lift to the airport. And I hope to see as many of you in the pub later on today.

There will be one last update in a few days.

End of transition time. Life begins today.

Thank you for reading me.

All the best

Carlos

The North Coast. And the Universe...

2008-09-06T03:37:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am in Tongue, just in the North coast of Scotland. From here, just four days more of easy walking to Dunnet Head.

It is great to have arrived up here. I feel like almost finished, which not being too optimistic as I have actually crossed the whole Britain walking now :)

Loch Achall

From Ullapool I was thinking that I would make it to Tongue in 4 days, walking through an area where there is.... nothing. That was a bit worrying, or to be more accurate, I was feeling I did not want to go through it, because that would mean doing wild camping, and I did not want more of it, no more bloody midges, no more damp wet, no more branch or pebble right under my back.
It actually took 3 days.

Boat House at Loch Achall

From Ullapool I took the track that went East by Loch Achall and Glen Achall. Nice place surrounded by low hills. I met a few fishermen. It was a calm day and I could some reflection pics by the loch.

The track would eventually became a path Northeast bound, and back to another track a bit later. After leaving the path, I continued walking through more heather moorland, crossed a few streams, and got temporally trapped in bog; I washed my boots a legs in the next atream.

I was IN the stream, getting my boots and legs clean!

I noticed that the landscape is slightly different up here. Still boggy hills, but there are less conifer woods, and some of the woods are non-conifer type of trees.

I went down the track towards Oykel Bridge without knowing if I would find a place to stay, call it camp site, B&B,... you name it, something non wild camping! A few Tornados fly passed me.

Once in Oykel bridge I was lucky enough to meet River and his daughter and son , David and Song. The told me there was a B&B 6 miles away and that they could give a lift there. The place was in Rosehall. Just a few houses and a small hotel. The B&B, Woodlands, was just 20 minutes walk from the village, and was nice a cheap. After shower I went to the hotel for a pint and a meal. I walked back to the B&B in complete darkness, as I had forgotten my torch.

The next day I was supposed to walk right back to Oykel Bridge (west), or get a lift, and continue my walk form there. But, having a look a t the map, I discovered a small road, starting just form Rosehall, that would take me North, towards I wanted to go. So I took that road.

Wet spider webs everywhere!

It was a fresh misty morning and it looked like the fog would disappear later and I would get some sun. I follow the narrow road by river Cassley. The sun came out, but briefly, and eventually I had some drizzle in the day.

Fisherman in River Cassley

Glen Cassley is once again a wide shallow valley. Fishermen, highland cows and a hot spot for deers as well. I saw a herd of at least 30 or 40 of them, too far for making any good picture.
The narrow road eventually became a track, still following the same river, and later reached a power station, where I stopped for lunch.

Glen Cassley; I really like this pic.

I have found lots of small power station in the last couple of weeks, using the never ending water resource up here in Scotland; there are streams everywhere.

After lunch, I continue to walk in the same track, but in a Northeast direction looking for Loch Shin. In a drizzle, I reached a ridge that overlooked Loch Shin and a green valley with Ben Klibreck at the back of it. It was a special sight because of the clouds that make shadows and light patches in the distant landscape.

There are dozens of "PASSING PLACE" signs in the narrow roads I am walking

I could also see the road that was supposed to be Wednesday destination, at the other side of Loch Shin where I was hopping to find a place to sleep. The way to the road felt much longer than it looked like. Once in the road I knocked in the first door I found to ask about accommodation. They mentioned the Overscaig hotel, and said that they used to have a bunk house; that meant cheap.

Loch Shin Valley. Impressive sky, with Ben Klibreck as background

However, in Ullapool, I had checked how my Premium Bonds were doing, and knew that in August I won..... £50!!!! So, if I had to have a luxury for a night, not a problem. And that is what happened. No Bunk house but beautiful single room at Overscaig hotel.

Ben Hope under the cloud, in a rather decent day.

I was two days away from Tongue, where I had a bed booked for Friday and Saturday night. looking at the maps, I learned that doing the distance to Tongue in one day was kind of "doable".
So I decided to try.

Gobernuisbach state was surrounded by a forest and nice mountains.

I started walking at 9:30 after booking Thursday night in Tongue hostel. Two hours to west Merkland, walking in sandals, no problem. Then I put the boots on for the walk in the track, that took me up the hill following Allt a' Chraois, a valley that took me to Allnabad, through Gobernuisbach state, a group of hoouses that I might have had a look to buy, if I had been a bit luckier with my premium bonds...

I stopped for lunch, and swapped the boots for the sandals, as I had to walk on a narrow road again. I was just half way, and I had been 6 hours walking. I knew it was going to be tough, but I just kept thinking in how nice and soft my bed would be that night...
I follow the road North, passing by Ben Hope and his impressive pillars, and then walked along Loch hope to reach the A838, just at the North Coast of Scotland. I stopped again for some food and water. My right food was feeling very sore, and I was thinking I had a big blister on its sole. 8 miles to go. It was more than 8 pm. I was going to walk in the dark, but the really bad thing that made me rush the last bit of walk was thinking on a closed hostel, so that I would have to pitch my tent in front of the main door... what a joke after almost 60 Km walk.

The bad part is underneath...

I walked the last 8 miles in 130 minutes. Back, arse, feet, hips and legs in pain, specially my right foot, but I made it to the hostel, and it was not closed. PLeasure shower, pleasure meal and pleasure sleep, after 12 hours and almost 60 km walk.

Tongue hostel

Tongue hostel is just great: for just £13 you get a very tidy and clean place to stay. And Hanne was very nice and invited me for an extra piece of home made banana and chocolate chips cake as I had done such a long walk in one day!!. Hostle grounds finishes just in the cliff that overlooks Tongue Bay and the Rabbit Islands.

On Friday, yesterday, I had one of the most lazy days of my life. I got up and after breakfast I went for walked, very slowly (las muniecas de famosa se dirigen al portal....) to tongue village. Bought a couple of newspapers and a magazine, had a beer (at noon... worrying...) and went back to the hostel for a bit of reading, made some pictures, some more reading, first siesta of the day, lunch, more reading, second siesta.... back on my bed, some more people arrived to the bunk room: Ross, who had just begun cycling from John O'Groats towards Land's End, and George, a local that was in the hostel for the weekend to hike some of the surrounding Bens with his cousin Lorraine.

Ben Loyal (left) and Ben Hope (right). And fields around Kyle of Tongue.

Today, Lorraine and George kindly gave me a lift to Bettyhill, where I will be walking tomorrow (is in the way to Dunnet head). I came here looking for a place with Internet, and I found it. The place I should say, is gorgeous, hills and sandy beaches. I should not leave this place without a swim in the sea.... if I have the guts, the water must be freezing.

Nice George and Lorraine

Next time you hear from me I will be done, I will have finished the walk. I will be in Thurso, with Karen.

Me. Kyle of Tongue and Rabbit Islands at the background.

And now, a brief note about something very important that is about to happen. On Wednesday the tenth, August 2008, I finish my walk. Also, England plays Croatia (yes, Croatia is the new Germany).

But more, actually, much more importantly, the Large Hadron Collider (LHC) is switched on.
This is a 27 Km long machine, the most expensive and most complicated one ever built by mankind, by far. No company or country could have undertaken the vast challenge of building this machine alone. So 111 countries united efforts to make it a reality.

The LHC is basically a long tunnel where sub-atomic (protons) particles are accelerated to speeds very, very, very close to speed of light (99.9999999% of speed of light on this one). Then, you smash them in a head to head crash, and "see" what the resulting debris are. They are expecting to find things like the Higgs Bossom or "Good particle" thought to have existed sometime within the first second of the universe almost 14.000 million years ago. This particle is thought to give mass to everything in the universe.
Apart from the Higgs particle, they might find baby black holes, and parallel dimensions... some think one of those black holes will shallow Geneva, or the whole earth; some serious Physicists said otherwise...

Anyway, this could be the most exciting scientific experiment of all time. It could lead to a "theory of everything", to a total and overall understanding to everything that happens in the universe, including where the hell is the 90% invisible matter that forms the universe!

The "Big Switch On" this Wednesday (broad casted live in radio 4 and eurovision) will not lead to a discovery on that very day. They need to fine tune the machine, and after interpreting the vast amount of data that each collision will create, we might begin to have some results in the beginning of 2009.

It might happen that this highly energetic collisions does not lead to any discovery, no Higgs particle, no dark matter..... which would mean that the Physics theory developed in the last decades, is all wrong, and we would have the best minds of our times, lost, and with no other chance but looking for a completely new point of view, to basically everything!!

The LHC, is not only a tunnel. The way you "look" at the debris you create, requires detectors. But the word detector takes a new definition here. They are massive!! Each one weight a few hundred tons, and a few hundred scientists work in each one. Can you imagine the complexity? There are six of them, placed in different places of the 27 km ring, and each of them look at different things happening in the collisions.

For building the machine they had to freeze some underground rivers, and took 8 years to build the magnet that will keep the ionized particles travelling at the speed of light on their track to a collision that will reproduce almost Big Bang conditions. The filaments that form the magnet, that has to be cooled down to -272C (1C above absolute zero), could stretch from here to the sun.

etc, etc, etc....

Wars, famine....
Well, I think the LHC is a good reason to be proud of being part of mankind. Unbelievable what we can achieve together!!

All the best, and if you see a baby black hole, it's not worth running, it will swallow you... :)

Carlos

From Craig to Ullapool

2008-09-01T03:38:00.001-07:00

Hi all.

It is Monday, and I am having my first blue sky day since.... I don't remember when. I am taking a day off; I needed it and I have time more than enough to meet Karen in Melvick next Monday 8th.

This picture is for Maria, from Vigo. Cx

After leaving the post office in Strathcarron I walked a couple hours more to Craig's independent hostel: Gerry's hostel. I was planning to walk it on the road, but I found an un-mapped path that ran by the river.

On my way to Craig

Gerry's hostel is a peculiar one. In the middle of no-where, run by Gerry, simple, cosy, with all you need, including a "luxury Harrods self service shop"!. There I met John and Rachael; They are married from London. He is a musician and she is a civil servant. We spoke a bit about our journeys and decided to walk together on the next day.

Thanks to have agreed walking with them I got up earlier than usual. We were walking at 8:30 am. It was, another, cloudy day, but at least, it was not raining. We had to walk 15 minutes on the road, and then we would take an old Pony trail through the Coullin pass. From there up the hill through small conifer woods and more heather moorland. Once at the top of the ridge we would descend to Coullin which is in a valley where we had a rest.

Loch Dughail and Loch Carron form the top of the ridge

From there we took a track that took us up the hill again, and not much later, and after a bit of tricky path navigation (not that it was a problem for this orienteering champ!), we reached a point from we could see Kinlochewe. It was really close and we agreed that it would not take more than two hours to get there.

John and Rachael in Coullin valley.

We stopped for lunch and continued down the hill. We went into a forest that had been cut down completely, and there things got bit complicated as the path was impossible to follow, lost under the dry dead trees. We opted to go straight down the hill, west instead of north, to look for a possible easy track close to the bottom of the valley. We were lucky and found it, but further on things got tricky again the path became a boggy hell, up and down to cross streams and through small woods with low annoying branches. All this within touching distance of Kinlochewe.

It was a pleasure to reach the road. We had a drink and said good bye. It was pleasure to walk with you guys.

Kinlochewe bunk house was simple but very cheap: £10 a night. I had dinner and a shower and met Aiden and Jaimee, both English. We had a drink in the pub next door. Soon bed time, I was very tired.

Seriously... some people have such a boring life...

On Saturday, more clouds, ready for probably the hardest walking day so far: there was a gap between the paths I was going to walk, and i had to cross a river, no bridge.... so anything could happen. I could even could find my self stuck in the middle of nowhere

Loch Maree from the A832

First I walk west on the A832, up the valley with nice views of Loch Maree. At the top I had a glance of Loch Chroigs, and saw that it was in complete calmness, there was no wind. in this conditions it was reflecting the sky and the hills around it which was making a perfect opportunity for photography. I got closed to the Loch and i did picture like the first one of this update or the one below, from the very shore of it.

Loch Chroigs mirror

Just after finishing doing my pics i realize how lucky I had been as a light wind fill the Loch with ripples, killing any reflection.

I continued a bit more on the road, and turned north, off road. I changed to the long lens as i was entering an isolated area and I might see some deers. Literally two minutes after that, I began seeing them on my right hand side, just at the edge of the forest. They saw me too. if you want to have a chance of getting close to them you need to see them before they see you. So I continue to walk out of their sight. Left my rucksack out of the track and i climbed the short hill into the forest. If they are still in the clear, they will find difficult to see me in the relative darkness of the wood, i thought.

I spent 2 hours stalking. I saw lots of them, females and stags too. No closer than 50 metres. A waste of time. The ran to the deer pub, and had a laugh at me....

Scottish moorland

I continued up the hill. From the top it was very desolate moorland, with impressive mountains in the distance. Down the hill again to reach a water pipeline that I followed on a easy walking track almost all the way to Loch Fannich. There i turned west to the end of the commented loch, where I left the track and had to cross the river.

Following the pipeline

The "no path gap", and crossing of the river, was luckily easy. The terrain was very boggy but walkable. And i did not have to go up the river to find a crossing point as it was running very low in water. I had a breath, and had something to eat. There was some breeze, so the midges stayed low and left me alone during my late lunch. Actually really late lunch: it was almost 7 pm, and so i was not sure if i would get to the road before dark. I rush my way up the hill, again.

I did not like the idea of finding myself in a place where there would be no space to pitch the tent, and dark. I went as quickly as i could, and descended towards the north branch of the A832 very quickly too. Nice scenery but difficult to appreciate with the increasing darkness.

Loch Fannich

I got to the road just on time. I did not need to use the head torch to walk on the road towards Braemore Junction, but I had ready just in case a car came.

Me in the bog. Loch Fannich at the bottom.

I had some strange ideas about keepping on walking until dawn....

I found a place to pith my tent. A bloody swamp by the road, not too wet for a swamp, full of midges. They left the midges pub to welcome me. I pitch the tent without light (that would have been suicide), without stopping moving (the bastards find more difficult to find you if you walk) and went into it as quick as I could.

It was not a good night sleep, and I swore that that was the last wild camping night of the walk; we'll see.

The bloody midges, they wanted to eat me alive!!!!

In the morning it was raining slightly, i could hear from the inside of the tent.... no, wait a minute, it was not rain, it was thousands of midges, hitting the tent, trying to get in, and eat me alive!

I left the tent with everything packed in the rucksack, and i put it on the road. Removed the tent pegs, and dismantled it on the road, as far as possible from the hell buggers.

It was a misty morning. I did not need to walk to Braemore junction as i found a shortcut to the tracks that ran parallel to the A835, the led to Ullapool. I crossed a wrecked bridge while humming the Indiana Jones main soundtrack music, and it began to drizzle.

On my way to Ullapool.

The walk was easy, on the tracks, as well as on the A835, but my feet were really hurting me. These boots don't like walking on roads or easy tracks. The walk to Ullapool, although easy, felt long and never ending. it was great to arrive to the hostel, have a shower and eat. My feet were a bit sore and slightly swollen. but this is not a big problem as they are ok the next morning.

Another one on the feet series. Swollen, but not too bad at all.

I really liked Ullapool. Small, in a little peninsula, surrounded by Loch Broom and mountains; quiet, but with good atmosphere. The hostel it really is like a home. I had dinner and went for a few drinks in the Arch Inn, a not very enchanting and modern place, but with good atmosphere. i saw Barcelona losing to Numancia.

Today, Monday, here I am updating my blog. The sun is gone, and the sky is completely covered now. In the evening, I will plan the rest of the walk in high detail, including walking distance, i will decided if i have time to stay another day in this nice place. I will go for a swim too.

Me in Ullapool. Sunny Monday morning.

A bit of humour: yesterday I bought the Sunday Times. In one of its magazines there was an interview to Robert Downey Jr., the actor that got back to life and acting after drugs and crime and spending a few months, if not years, in an LA jail. He recently starred in Iron Man; recommended. So, he speaks about his pass and mistakes and lessons and his new life. And here is R. Downey Jr. on mistakes from the past, how to keep them under control and learn form them: (it's a bit rude...)

"...One must always be mindful, just like you might forget that old girlfriend who tried to slit your throat, but she is really still hot"

"If you remember the stitches more than you remember the pussy, you are going to be just fine..."

What a genius!

That was all. Next time you hear from me I might be in the north coast.

All the best

Carlos

Knoydart part II, Skye and Loch Carron.

2008-08-28T03:29:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am in Strathcarron, at the north tip of Loch Carron.

Here are a few more pictures form the fairy tale forest.

Snow white and the dwarfs...

A happy family...

The owl that spoke to me...!

As I was saying yesterday before I was kicked out of Kyle library, Dyeison and myself went "hunting" stags. it was really hard and did not get any shot of them. The scenery though was beautiful, and managed to have lunch in one the of the rain breaks.

Dyeison at the top!

We walked chasing the herds of deers (not that we thought we would catch them) and descended back to the valley through a steep gorge with stream.

Amazing views from the top of the ridge.

We recover the rucksacks and walked the track that would take us to Inveire. We were very hungry and tired, and the only thing in our minds was :"Venison pie, venison pie, venison pie..."

Full belly, having a "few" drinks.

We arrived to the bunk house at about six pm. Karen, Lyndon, Jez and Dan were there. It was a pleasure to see them again, and have a shower.... and knowing that we had a table at the Old Forge for 7:15.

We ate and drink and had a wonderful night. Dyeison and i had a Venison burger, each, and then we shared a lamb leg with mash potato and a salad, plus desert, Irish coffee, and a nice mixture of shiraz, whiskeys and red cuillin ( a nice ale form Skye). One of the best meals of my life.

Back in the Bunk house, I slept like a baby.

On the ferry to Mallaig. Quick pic, and back in again! It was very wet!

On Monday we got up early to get the ferry (small boat) to Mallaig. No breakfast, just get our things and go. It was a rainy miserable day. Half way to the pier, I realize that something was missing: i had left the flag in the bunk house. It was "so good" to run back with a 20 kgr rucksack, wearing the poncho, in the rain.... Morning exercise. I made it on time.

Mallaig's Harbour

The ferry was a small boat, and took us to Mallaig in 30 minutes. In Mallaig we had breakfast. Dyeison, Jeremi and Dan left on the 10 am train, I made some shopping and stayed with Karen and Lyndon for lunch. They were taking 2 pm steam train to Fort William to continue their holiday, but I left a bit earlier looking for place to update the blog.

There was a computer in the library, but it would log off every 30 minutes, so not long enough for the update. I had a look at my e-mail and put the music that Phil had sent to me in my MP3.

I rediscovered U2. Songs like "So cruel" from Achgtun baby, and "If you wear that velvet dress" from Pop. Genius!!! http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=6snI72LGfP4

Thank you so much Phil!!

The huge ferry from Mallaig to Skye

I took 4 pm ferry to Skye. Unlike early morning, the sun was shining. The wind was blowing strongly and made quite a few pictures of the west side of Knoydart and the south of SkyeKnoydart from the ferry

The first thing that called my attention from Skye was the clarity of its coast water. The landscape reminded me somewhere in England, maybe somewhere in Devon or Cornwall... at least this part of the Isle: Armadale. There was supposed to be a hostel just in Armadale, but it had closed. A local told me that there was another one not far, a couple of miles away following the coast. It was sunny, and I really enjoyed the walk.

Mainland form Armadale in Skye

The hostel was in Kilmore, up the hill from the main road. McDonald hostel. It was a small place, family run.

After eating, i borrowed a bike, without breaks to go to the pub back in Armadale. On my way, I was hit on my head by a disorientated bat. In the pub I could see Man U.-Portsmouth (footy is back, woohoo!) and updated my diary. They had Red Cuillin, which was good.

I cycled back to the hostel under an amazing stars sky.

On Tuesday, for my walk in Skye weather had turned ugly again, and it drizzled constantly, all day long. The landscape changed and from the road I was walking on, all I could see were low moor land covered on heather. It was not a fun walk, to be honest, and all i wanted was getting to Kyleakin, and rest in the hostel I had booked.

Skye Bridge from Kyleakin

Dun Cann hostel, a really cosy one, and family run, was a real pleasure. It is in Kyleakin harbour and overlooked the Skye bridge. The atmosphere was excellent and there was people from New Zealand, Canada, and England, all of them travelling in Scotland. I went to the nearby pub where I try to update the blog, but the computer did not work very well, so i just had a couple of Red Cuillins and went back to the hostel, where i carefully planned the route to Tongue, on the north coast.

The cuillins from Skye bridge

It resulted to be a complicated way, with no villages, apart from the Ullapool area, just very few roads,...

...and a gap between paths where I will have to walk in what for the moment is an unknown terrain and follow a river up hill to find a good crossing point.

I finished the planning a bit nervous, and I went to bed a bit nervous about the walking days coming.

On Wednesday, yesterday, the weather had changed for better again and i could take a few good pictures of the Cuillins (the mountains, nothing to do beer ... for once) from the bridge that took me to mainland again.

In Kyle of Lochalsh I made yesterday slow and frustrating update, in its library. I should say though that they were very patient and kind and let me log in again and again every half an hour so I could do my thing. They shut for lunch and i went for an orange juice (and I mean an orange juice, I swear) and i put dates to my walking plan to Tongue.

I felt better, compared to yesterday unsettling nervousness, when i realize that I had more than enough time to get to Melvick on time, where I will meet Karen on the 8th of sept. to do the two last days together. I think I will have one, two or three spare days, which is always good.

Back to the library, and then I continued to walk following the road that runs by the coast towards Loch Carron. The walk was a pleasure, lifted by the music that Phil had sent to me. The scenery reminded me the west coast of Ireland.... wait a minute, I have never been there, but it is true that when I saw this place, "west coast of Ireland" came to my mind automatically; I guess, that I must have seen a program in telly or something.

Anyway, the place is gorgeous, but mainly, you can breath calmness and tranquility there. Small houses spread in small villages in the heather moorland.

Special mention to Diurinis. If you want tranquility, go there.

Diurinis

After this coastal bit, the road went a bit inland, through a conifer forest and by Loch Lundie. This place was not Knoydart, but there undoubtedly was a feeling of loneliness and isolation in it.

Ria de Vigo?? No, Loch Carron.

The road went back down to the coast and I began walking by Loch Carron. The water reminded me "La Ria de Vigo" (Maria, Ruth? Are you there????!). It is quite a wide one and in the distance I could see one of those floating things they use to grow mussels and other seafood.

Me at Loch Carron

It did not rain in the whole day, but it was being pretty gloomy. There was no camp sites or hostels on the way, so I had to look for a place to pitch my tent. Just a few miles before the end of the Loch, there was a gate that led into a path. I put my tent in the beginning of the path. The place was quite wet, and the midges attacked again, not in the King's House numbers, but were a pain in the arse.

Once I was in the tent, it rained again. I write my diary, read the newspaper (if you are wondering, I updated the diary in the office, and read the newspaper, comfortably, seating in a sofa in the lounge; this tent of mine, is amazing!). Had just a bit of bread for dinner. Mum: don't worry, I am not wasting away, before dinner, I had just had an addict attack and ate a whole pack of choc. biscuits and a whole choc. bar...

Loch Carron

This morning rained a little bit as well. But stopped as i got out of the tent. I kept on walking by Loch Carron. I big clear opened just on top of the Loch, illuminating the North side of it (I was in the north one), and photographed a nice rainbow.

The Loch finishes in Strathcarron where I am now. There is a train station, a restaurant and hotel, an art gallery (there are galleries almost in every house in this place; not surprised, the scenery is inspiring) and a post office with food store where I am now. It is not being cheap or extremely quick, but I am managing to update the blog properly.

From here I will walk 2 or 3 hours more to the hostel in Craig. Tomorrow, off road again towards Kinlochewe.

That was all. I feel better now that I got it updated. Next one?, I don't know.

All the best

Carlos

Knoydart part I

2008-08-27T03:29:00.000-07:00

Hi all

I am in Kyle of Lochlash. I am finding increasingly difficult to get my blog updated as I go further north. Computers just don't exist or if they do, "just for half an hour" and that is not enough to update this space.

Here are a few pictures to that proofs that the fairy tale forest was not part of my imagination or an effect of having had some magic mushrooms:

The nymph...

Gnomes...!

The ghost...!

On friday the 22nd I met Jeremi, Dan, Dyeison, Karen and Lyndon to walk the Knoydart peninsula. I walked for hour and a half to Invergarry on the main road, the A82. We were supposed to meet at 2 pm. They were slightly late so i waited reading the Times and having a few Red Cuillins; nice ale!

When they arrived, I was quite merry, and had a whiskey before leaving.

Getting the camp ready. Headnets for midges on!!

We took a taxi to Kinloch Hourn (this is not cheating as the road goes westbound, so did not take me closer to John O'Groats). The road runs by a Loch surrounded by low hills a conifer small woods. It has something special, and the feeling of isolation, as we were supossed to find in this place, is present since the very beginning. The single track road left the loch to continue windingly and up and down. The "campsite" is in a valley where there are a couple of farms, in the west end of Loch Hourn. We found a place to pitch our tents and did quickly while the midges were beginning to be a pain. Dyeison was in charge of lighting the fire.

Chilling out around the fire

On that night we had a nice stars sky, and drank and ate around the fire. Just before bed we could see the moon coming out behind the hills surrounding us. It took one minute, a real magic moment. Then Dan, Jez, Dyeison and me looked at the moon for minutes, like hypnotised.

On saturday, after a nice full English breakfast we walked on the south edge of Loch Hourn. The path run very close to the salty water, and went up and down the low hills surrounding the loch. The weather was good, no sunny though, but rain and wind was forecast. We stopped several times for some water, or biscuits and chocolate, and had lunch on a nice beach from where we could see the isle of Rum.

Jeremi walking very close to Loch Hourn water

From there we changed direction into Knoydart, Southwestbound, into a steep valley. The weather changed, and became wet and very windy. The steep and uncomfortable climb led us to a summit form where we could see Gleann an Dubh-Lochain valley. The place runs from east to wast towards Loch Nevis and has a nice lake on its west end before the sea. The valley is surrounded by almost 1000 metres high mountains and in the middle has a mini hill range 200-300 metres high approx. We went down the valley on a path on the north slopes of it heading west. From the path I saw what what looked like Highlands cows, but Lyndon's binoculars made clear that they were stags!! I got very excited, and thought on maybe getting a good picture of one of them if i got lucky enough!!

In good company

We all were thinking on finding a good spot to pitch our tents before the weather got really nasty. Almost at the bottom of the valley, before reaching the lake but not too far and by the last hill of the small central ridge of the valley, we spotted a small green that could make as our wild camp site. Dyeison went down through the rough and steep heather, crossed the stream and checked how wet the grass was. Thumbs up. We all went down and pitched the tents as quick as possible.

I went for a quick look from the small hill (around 60 m. high) we were camping by. I grabbed my camera, and borrowed Lyndon's binoculars just in case. From the top of the hill I looked east towards the small central ridge using the binoculars: nice water fall in the distance and and heather moorland. Noting else. I was going to go back, when I saw a dark red stain moving. The binoculars showed me a big stag, at about 400 meters, moving down the hill from the central range towards me. I got really really excited....

Through the binoculars I could see that there were several big knolls around the area where the deer was going that i could use to hide in order to get closer. But in order to use them I needed to be at the other side of the small hill where i was. So, I run back around this hill, away from the stag sight, and surrounded it losing height so that on approach to the animal, the small knolls would hide me. I used the principle, "if i can see him, he can't see me". I ran on the boggy heather trying to keep the knolls between me and where I thought the deer was. I got increasingly excited because I was getting very close. At the same time I was preparing my camera, running and watching out for any sight of the deer coming out behind the knolls. It was really good fun... Hunter!!!!!!

I crawled up one of the knolls and had a look. I saw it!, very close, but not close enough. there was another knoll, that would let me get real close. I ducked and moved towards it. And there it was!!! 20 metres perhaps??.

The light was very poor, and used ISO3200, and -2.0 eV correction, and even with that i only could have 1/15 shutter speed at 300 mm, and a not completely steady shot, even with the VR system of the lens.. the heart beating like crazy did not help neither.

And here it is.

Got him!!

The picture is crap (very noisy although the noise reduction system was on, and not sharp, and with no natural colours; I apply in-camera D-lighting feature to get a bit more light), but I got really close to him!!

I got back to where the tents were, 3 or 400 metres away, very happy and excited.

We had something to eat. Dyeison tried hard with the fire, but it was impossible; it was really wet, and raining. We had our drinks in Lyndon's and Karen's tent. Nice night.

Wind speed increases though, and it was really difficult sleep that night... excepting dyeison that slept like a baby the whole night.

On sunday, Dyeison and myself wrapped our tents in a plastic sheet borrowed form Lyndon and went "hunting" deers. The rest, the sensible ones, headed to the pub in Inverie. We had been seeing big herds of male and female deers during the morning in at the top of the ridges. So exciting!!

A picture for Dyeison's and my adventure.

We carried just the camera and a bit of food. We climbed straight up the slopes of the south of the valley. Hard work, very hard work, and it was wet and cold and raining. We saw herds of deers in the distance, and a female and a calf very close to us, but did not get a good picture opportunity....

... and that is all for the moment. Let me underline my frustration for this shortage of time and resources for updating my blog. I'll be looking for a place for continuing with it as soon as possible.

All the best and see you soon,... very soon.

Carlos

Did not try them

Caledonian Canal and Loch Lochi. And a fairy tale...

2008-08-21T16:15:00.001-07:00

Hi all.

I am in a youth hostel two miles south of Invergarry, just in the north tip of Loch Lochi.

I don't know how to extract the pics from my camera in this computer, so no images this time. I could wait til tomorrow and see if I can find an Internet place in the village, but i might find that there is none, and I don't know when I will have the chance to update the blog next- from now on, lots of mountains, and paths, and nature, but civilization diminish north of here.

On wednesday started walking at 5:30 pm, after 5 tiring hours of blog updating. I left Fort William not without certain sadness as i had such a fantastic time there. I walked by the Caledonian canal. The day was grey, and I was not sure if i would make it to the camping, just before the beggining of Loch Lochi. No a big problem, i had my torch, i could do wild camping, and the path was actually a track that a car could use.

I got to the campsite at 10 pm, in complete darkness and in the middle of an unpleasant drizzle. No dinner, not even a shower. Straight into the tent, and sleep. I was very tired.

Today, more rain in the morning. My tent soaked in the outside, and some small paddles in the inside. I dried what I could. This bloody weather is beggining to....! well, i don't think the weather will care if i like it or not, if i get frustrated or not, if i want sun and a dry field to pitch my tent, so, I just take as it comes, and expect for the best. Sigh!

I had more drizzle on and off, but it was not too bad (if hadn't bloody had it for the last two or three weeks!!!!.... easy, easy, take it easy...). The path that runs in the north side of Loch Lochi was very easy to walk.

It goes into a small wood, not far from the beggining of the loch. Just there, guess who i saw!:

Snow White and The Seven Dwarfs. No, I had not been smoking any kind of "plant" or drinking any kind of "juice". Sorry I can't show the pictures, now; I'll do it when i can. Then I noticed that they were welcoming to the Fairy Tale Wood. Between the first few trees i could see more wonders: a gorgeous tiny nymph smiled at me. I went into the forest, and i saw more dwarfs, and even gnomes, and there was a swamp with crocs and lizards and horrible spiders and worms, and a family of cats, a huge bear, and wild animals like monkeys elephants and tigers... I also bumped into a teddy bears meeting, saw clowns and even a ghost!!

An old owl said goodbye to me with deep voice. I continued my way.

The path turned into a good track, following still the the loch. My boots were hurting me a bit more than the last few days before getting to Fort William, and just after 4 hours walking I felt knackered. have I lost my fitness with the week rest?? I don't think so, maybe just a bad day.

I arrived to the hostel at 5:30. Tomorrow i will meet Jez, Karen, Lyndon, Dan and Dyeison to walk the Knoydart peninsula. After that, a bit of Skye and then more mainland northbound with Craig.

That is all for the moment.

Take care and write to you soon.

Carlos

2008-08-20T13:25:00.001-07:00

Fort William

"...Sometimes there's so much beauty in the world I feel like I can't take it, like my heart's going to cave in..." (From "American Beauty" screenplay)

To Claire, Ben, Sally, Anna, Craig, Graemme, Sam, Alexia; Lorraine, Graemme, Brad, Garreth; Sonja, Ira; Michael and Malte.

All of them part of my week in Fort William.

Once in a life time.

Carlos

Blue, sliding doors and the rest of my life...

2008-08-20T05:09:00.000-07:00

*Apologies to Paul* :(

Hi all.

I am in Fort William. Today, after updating my blog, I will walk following the Great Glen W northeast towards Invergarry.

A&E

How could I begin? This is not one more blog update. I have just had one of the best weeks of my life. I have met some amazing people.

Last Wednesday, after the last blog update, I was just knackered. Did some shopping and took the bus to the hostel, that is 2 miles away form Fort William in the Nevis Valley, just at the base of Ben Nevis. I ate, had a shower, and headed to the pub for diary updating and beer.

It was then that I met Graemme and Lorraine. I had seen them before meeting. Graemme stood up for ordering something and stopped by my table and offered me a drink. Spoke for a while standing up. I was not feeling like talking, to be honest, and I really wanted to finish with the diary, but he invited me to joining them. I did, which was a great thing to do.

Lovely Graemme and Lorraine

They are form South Africa, and live in Nottingham. Came to England 10 years ago. They were on Holiday with their two boys and Lorraine's mum and dad, just in one of the bungalows next to the hostel. We had a good night on Wednesday, and we would probably meet the next day in the West Highland games.

Music in the games

On Thursday morning I met Michael in town. Before that I made a phone interview for La Nueva Espana, an Asturias regional newspaper. We did some shopping, had the first of the day, and headed for the games. There we met Malte (sorry if I misspell your name), a German guy that had walked the WHW at the same time as we did. We stayed together and saw the games.
I met Graemme, Lorraine and their two boys, and her mum too.

Scottish power in action!

The games finished quite late, around 9, and Michael, Malte and I were quite tired. "...yeah, time to go home,... I am knackered, ... yeah me too,.... well, actually, shall we have one?" It was, you know, one of those times when you go for one.... and another, and another... Beer, nice whiskeys.
Live music. Michale loved the singer! What a good night!

Having "one". Malte is actually less pissed than he looks like in the pic...

Time to go. Said goodbye to Michael and Malte, and got ready for the 50 minutes walk to the hostel. (no buses at that time of the night). But I got a taxi eventually. £8. Too much! From now on I walk, I thought.

Before leaving the taxi I saw a couple of girls chilling out outside the hostel. I recognised them. I had seen them the night before in the pub. My week began to change...

Said hello, we spoke for a minute, and sat down with them. Sonja and Ira. German.
They were wearing mountain gear (they've been at the top of Ben Nevis), barefoot, with their feet resting on their rucksacks. They were traveling in Scotland, planned to go to Edinburgh festival and Ireland.
They were really nice, and took out of one of their rucksacks one of those things you always carry when you climb Ben Nevis: a bottle of Greek sweet wine, and three glasses. I took out some bread, cheese and chorizo.

Sonja and Ira

We shared, the wine, the food and watched telly.

This encounter, really stroke me hard. Maybe it was nothing, maybe it was just the way I take things, but really hit me hard.
Since I moved to 17 April Close, in February, everything had been equilibrium, and peace, and knowing what I was doing, and sensibly happy. When I said goodbye to Ira and Sonja, everything changed, they left me feeling the blues, that kind of sweet sadness,... melancholy??. Once again, just maybe the way I take things...
They were kind of an inspiration, the way they were traveling, the way they were taking life on those very moments.

On Friday I woke up with the same down feeling. However, the guy in the mirror had a silly subtle smile on his face...
Many things went through this head.... strange ideas like keep on walking, when I get to Dunnet's Head, my way down to Horsham. I thought about what I want in life, where am I going from here?. At the same time I realised how much I was loving my time alone, my walk, my adventure, and I wonder if I really wanted to go back to "normal" life. How to go back, when you can live a never ending adventure? Even, if that means being alone, forever. Even if it means "dying alone"...

How do I want to live my life?

Adventure? Commitment?

I saw Ira and Sonja in the morning. "Bye".

I left the hostel and looked for Graemme and Lorraine bungalow, I knew they were leaving on Saturday, and I wanted to see them again. I found her mum and dad in it. They had gone for a walk. I left my number, maybe we could meet later for food and drinks.

I went to Fort William and sent some pictures to the newspaper, some e-mails, and back to the hostel for shower. Graemme had called. We met at 7 and went to the Ben Nevis Inn, a 200 years old refurbished barn. They invited me to a lovely dinner.

Lorraine, Graemme, Brad and Garreth.

It was a real pleasure to meet and talk to Brad (16) and Garreth (13). I will see what I can do with isopropanol Garreth, and Brad, you will have your chorizo iberico sometime in October.
Had a great time. I was not in the best mood, but they really cheered me up.

Brad, Garreth... I think he is falling asleep... :) and me.

The boys went to bed and I stayed with Lorraine and Garreth for the last one. Interesting conversation, and inspiring too. More than once I have been asked about the possibility of writing a book with all the stories, experiences and pictures from this walk. "Book" sounds like a too big word for me. I can write something, but that does not mean you can call it a book. Lorraine and Graemme were really inspiring in that respect, and made me think about it seriously.

On Saturday, more of the same feeling. For the first time in a long time, I was regretting a bit to be alone, I really needed someone to talk... just someone. I looked for a place in Fort William to write my diary; there were lots of things to write....
Volunteer's Arms?, a bit dodgy, sitting by the Loch?, after five minutes I needed a toilet, the next pub? too noisy, or the telly was on.
I ended up in a good atmosphere Bar/Restaurant in the High Street, and my week was about to change again. I was comfortable, and just in the right mood (moody) to write. After a while I went to the bar for the second (in that pub, not overall). While I was waiting for my pale ale, some began elbowing me. Some idiot in a hurry, I thought. When i turned, and looked slightly down, I could see this crazy girl, looking for a party really. She funnily apologised, and went somewhere else down the bar with her friend, to "annoy" someone else. I went back to my seat, and started to THINK how good it would be to chat and drink with these very attractive persons.

A pin size dancer from the Highland Games. Un espurin, diria yo!

From Glasgow, I decided that there would be no more THINKING when it is about approaching people. I immediately stopped THINKING and went to them. Introduced my self and offered my table. They were from New Zealand We sat together for a few minutes, but they were really in a hurry, "forced me to finish my beer" quickly.... wait a minute, "forced me...", that was a funny line!! Anyway, I finish it, and almost chased them to the pub down the road.

Just after getting there, they went to the toilet. I took care of my drink while reading the newspaper. After a few minutes on my own, I realized had not gone to the toilet, they had run away..... to be honest, I felt a bit upset. I really was not nasty with them or anything like that.... Had I had a shower that morning...????

Anyway, I walked back to the nice quite pub to keep on writing. Just on the doorstep, I saw the two run away girls inside. I turned 180 degrees and looked for another place.
I went in to the Ben Nevis bar. It was quite busy, but it looked like nice form the outside.
Left my stuff on the table at the bottom, went for a pint and as I walked back to the table noticed a group of people on my right. There was a blue eyed blonde, and two guys fighting by the fire exit... they were playing.

Ben Sally and Anna... far in the center of the pic. We met a few seconds later

Just when my bottom touched the chair, two of them stood up, and said, loudly: "oh my God, it is him, the guy that is Walking Britain....!!!!!" They came closer, shouting, everybody looking, "Am I in deep shit?", I thought.

If I had not gone to meet the "attractive" New Zealand girls, this would never had happened.

Sliding doors.

Ben, Sally and Anna... closer.

In the landscape above you can see Ben, Anna and Sally far away in the center of the image. That was the beginning of the Pennine Way, on the ridge on top of Edale Valley, the Sunday after my sheep shit feet picture. They saw my banner, we spoke for a minute. Gone, like so many other people.

Graemme and Claire.

They saw me in the pub, and remember my face. In the beginning I could not remember them, later on I did; first Ben and then the girls. And then I found the picture. Unbelievable. Some ask the other day. Do you believe in fate? I don't, but...

So, who is the lucky bastard????!

Ben Sally and Anna were with other five friends from the Manchester area (also Wigan and Newcastle): Craig, Claire, Graemme, Alexia and Sam. And Paul; I met him a few days later. They immediately asked me to join them for dinner.

Craig: doesn't he have an amazing pair of blue eyes??!

The blues was finished. My week changed for better. What can I say about them? First of all: I felt welcome, very much. They are an extraordinary group of friends. Among them, a bike rider that looks like Richard Ashcroft, and a model that looks like Cate Blanchett....

"Richard" (Ben) and "Cate" (Alexia)

...and talking about "Cate". She is the first model I have ever met. You know when they say in models contests, that is not only about having a pretty face, that you also have to be nice and have character.... bla bla bla bullshit. Well, it was true. Alexia is a cheerful, very expressive and caring person. Cheers for Alexia.... by the way, this is Paco...

So, after dinner, we went to the night club.... yes, there is a night club in Fort William. We danced, we drank, they played U2, but a fight stopped the song. Damm it!.
It was time to go back to the hostel, and the camping where they were staying very close to the hostel. Taxis.
They came, but there was no space for the Gladiator... I mean the Spaniard. So, they took my camera, and jumper, and diary, "and carried it for me". I had a run to the camping, but I could not find them.
Craig had just the time to put my camera on e-Bay, he was offered £300. Not enough!

Luckily, on the next morning, I was quick enough finding them in an area of the camping I had not looked, and recovered my stuff, including the camera. I was invited for bbq later in the evening.

Sam and Claire

Things had changed completely. I was so happy I had met this amazing people. I still felt a bit touched by "the blues" of the last few days, but it was very different now.
I went for a swim, and did some shopping. Back in the hostel got ready for the bbq.
We had a good night. Ate, and drink, and sang.

Camping and hostel are down there. From the path that took us to the summit.

The plan for the next day, Monday, was climbing Ben Nevis. Craig would join us for the walk. Craig will also walk with me after doing the Knoydart.
We were supposed to meet at 10 am, and for once, it wasn't the Spaniard the one that was late. Craig and I met at the hostel and walked to the camping; 10 minutes.

Climbing it!

We started walking at 12.... no rush. Craig, Sam and Graemme, did not come and went to the Nevis range for some bike descend.

Claire, having a rest, and relaxing.

The day was overcast. An hour before reaching the summit we went into the cloud. It became windy, and increasingly cold. The fog was very dense. In the summit, we got into the shed for lunch, otherwise it would have been bad to eat in that weather.

Having lunch in the shed at the top of The Ben.

We descended quickly and it was nice to be able to remove jumper and waterproofs.
And suddenly, going from seeing no more than 20 meters to kilometers with Glen Nevis down below.

A nice group picture, with Craig standing in the middle.

After the climbing (it felt easier to me than when I did it a few years ago for the Three Peaks Challenge), Craig and I stayed in the hostel for dinner, the rest went back to the campsite. We met for a drink later on. Just a quick one, we were tired.

I am quite happy with this one...

On Tuesday, yesterday, I was supposed to go with Sam, Graig, Graemme and Ben to the Nevis Range for some action photography. Before that, Graig (the other Craig) and I walked back to Fort William to plan where we were going to meet on the evening of the 26th. We bought some maps, did some shopping and Craig left to do some hiking on his own.

The camera likes Ben

Karen called me the other day. She will join me for the last bit of my walk, the last two couple of days, which is great. She needed to know when and where to book transport, so I had to do some planning.

I almost got hit in this one

It was not nice, I did not enjoy it, it was stressful. I was with all those maps in the Mountain Center, and it was really difficult to found a way through the Highlands. The tracks going in the right direction would normally end up in an unpassable cliff.

Graemme jumping. High ISO setting got him sharp.

Eventually, I think I found my way to Dunnet Head, and I will be meeting Karen in the north coast of Scotland in the 8th of September, which means We'll finish the walk together in the 10th.
I left the shop with all the maps I need from Fort William to Dunnet Head, really stressed, and facing something that I really did not like, the end of the walk. Went back to the Blues for a few hours: life, adventure...???

I took a bus to the Nevis Range, and met the boys for some action photography. Sam and Craig where waiting for their extremely expensive bike to be fixed. I went looking for Graemme and Ben. Most of the pics I took were crap, but for being the first time taking these kind of shots, i got a few half decent ones. See above.

I got a lift to hostel. Ate and fix the banner. I have a new one now. Printed and laminated. Same as the other one, although something is telling that not so well assembled as the one that Sally did. We'll see.

Blue eyes French painter??

I met my lovely Manc accent friends later on in the camping. Sam and Craig left to somewhere in Scotland, for more bike riding.

It was a great night.

We basically drank wine, and talked, and laughed. This is one of the things about them: laughter was always about to happen. I did not talk much, sometimes they went to quickly, so I would have enough with listening. Listen amazed. They are such good group of friends.

SO, WHO THE HELL IS THE LUCKY BASTARD???!!!!!!!!

I feel very lucky that I met them.

It was a night when the stars shined bright. Well, it was overcast, but I am pretty sure they were shining bright. Don't you think, Claire?

The boys. Graemme, me, Paul and Ben.

And when they do, and wine runs free, I can't help it, I get very very very very silly, and cheese, and songs does not stop coming to my head. Yesterday, it was and Amaral one.

Beauties!. I was the photographer. I am such a lucky bastard!

Amaral is a very good Spanish singer. It was "Como hablar" the song that was coming to my head yesterday night, while the stars shined.
"Como hablar": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6I9ezt5_pI

The song, you will not understand much guys, goes dedicated to all of you.
Thank you so much for a such a fantastic time.

I hope we meet sometime in the future.

Me and Claire.

This morning, full gear on, including banner, I bumped into Paul, Sally, Claire, Alexia and Anna. They were in Graemme's car. They stopped. More kisses and hugs, more good wishes, more goodbyes.
They left me trembling, slightly blue, almost crying, feeling the luckiest guy in the world.

It might be nothing, it might be just me, just the way I take things... it felt like heaven, felt like I would die a happy man then.

I have been almost 5 hours in front of the computer now. I am tired, and I still have to do today's walk.
I wonder what will the rest of the walk bring? How will I feel? How will reaching Dunnet Head be like,

... and the rest of my life...?

Bye now.

Carlos

The West Highland Way

2008-08-13T06:50:00.000-07:00

Hi all

I am in Fort William. Yesterday I tried to update the blog in Kinlochleven, but something went wrong and I wasted 3 hours of work. Luckily I could save the writing in a word file and do the update today, and all I have to do is adding the pics.

After leaving the Internet cafe in Glasgow I went to a nice pub where they had beers from all around the world. Then had my sandwich and headed for the hostel to have the last one.

On the next day, and after breakfast I began walking towards Melngavie through the North West of Glasgow. I was a bit concerned, as i was expecting to find the same antisocial behaviour as around Motherwell, drunks and so. But everything went well, and actually the west end of Glasgow was not so bad. I bumped into a bagpipe band in the park close to the botanic. They were practising (for the festival in Edinburgh I thought). I think they were Americans... or maybe from Cornwall...

Milngavie is a nice village and the place where the West Highland Way (WHW) begins.

From there the path gets into an easy walking wood, always climbing slightly. Once out of the forest and at the top of a not very high ridge, I descended towards a wide valley, before reaching the south end of Loch Lommond the next day.

A very nice, and very sensible footy nut form Milngavie. Viva Espana!!!

From there I could see the first hills of the Highlands. The weather was being good and got quite a lot of sunshine... for Scotland. I walked in the flat valley below where i met Butt, a young Belgian soldier walking the WHW. We walked together until the camping in Gartness, just outside Drymen. He crashed in his tent, and I walked to the pub in Drymen.

First Highlands hills.

The weather was changing, and became really windy. The pub in Drymen, the Clachan, is the oldest licenced one, from 1734. There I wrote my diary and I was quickly kidnapped by Mac, and met Ian, a 74 years old guy (in the picture) that really looked much younger. The waiter, who had been working in Madrid, and the other guy in the picture, were extremely nice and got a few free "water of life". Pleasure!

On the next day it was pissing down with rain. I waited until it stopped and packed everything. It was good that the camp site had a shed were you could stay dry while eating.

Dry shelter

I passed through Drymen to buy some food and i continued to walk towards Balmaha, in the south east end of Loch Lommond. It was raining a bit, but I did not need to put the poncho on.

First sight of Loch Lommond.

From Balhama, it continued raining, but not too strongly. The WHW runs just on the east edge of the Loch. From there you have access to the Bonnie Bonnie Banks, or little pebble beaches where Rob Roy used to have barbeque's, and swim with his English pals a few centuries ago.

From the path you can see the small islands in the Loch and the distant west shore. The light was very bad, and it was hard to find good shots. I began taking underexposed pics, and i think they have a nice moody atmosphere.

The bonnie banks

I stayed in Rowerdannan youth hostel. There were lots of Spaniards (not as many as Germans, they are everywhere in the WHW) in the hostel, and I met Michael (Barcelona), Yuyu and Ana (also from Barcelona) and Gaizka (San Sebastian). We had a few drinks in the nearby pub. I also met Thomas from Denmark and his girlfriend Lewan.

The Spanish community.

On the next day I walked alone towards Inverarnan and Beinglas camp site. Thomas and Lewan walked the same way and at the same time but at a different pace, as Lewan had a problem with her ankle. The path continued on the edge of the loch, with similar scenery and similar light conditions.

Many waterfalls from the hills around Ben Lommond.

There were countless streams coming from the slopes surrounding Ben Lommond. I stopped for a break and food in a hotel by the water, from where you could take ferries. The west shore of the lake began to come closer and closer. A bit later, and at the same time as a French couple I arrived to a clear where there were five red deers (I thinks they were red deers...?)

Eating and resting.

The smaller and younger ones disappear quickly as the humans came into the clear, but the older one stayed. The French woman, kindly gave me a hand to change to the long lens, I could make some pictures. It was not as exciting as that other time near Bristol because the deer was not shy at all, and i could get within ten metres of her (I thought it was a female) in good light. I thought that she was old enough to be used to humans. Despite the proximity with the animal, I did not get any very good picture.

A very brave deer.

From there it was just a short walk to Beinglas campsite. There I met with Michael and Thomas and Lewan, and went for a drink in the Drover's Inn, a 300 years old pub with all sort of stuffed animals on its wall (even a shark), and claymores, and armors...

Hola Fernando. Dedicada.

Yuyu, Gaizka and Ana were there too, and we had a good time trying the local whiskeys and beers. We met Stuart, a German guy that had travelled all around the world and worked in the pub.

I liked the place so I decided to stay for a couple of days. And so did Michael. Tomas and Lewan stayed for an extra one. The next day, Friday, Michael and myself went to the Fallock Falls, where we where planning to maybe have a swim. the weather was not bad, but not good enough for the bloody cold water of the stream.

Stuart

Back in the campsite, we had a short siesta and met in the pub with Thomas and Lewan for dinner. I had my first haggis ( a big one) and a nice desert. Then we listened to some live Celtic music; nice but we were expecting a bit less boring. Stuart sang, quite successfully I would say. Others in the crowd sang as well, not so nice, as this woman who introduced me to all his family... by showing me his pictures in her compact digital camera.... weird.

Michael checking maps.

Back to the campsite we saw an amazing sky with lots of stars; the milky way was visible too. I tried to do some pictures, but failed.

A few days ago I told you how I organised my tent, and good it is. On top of that, and after having seen lots of them on my walk, I can say that it is the coolest and most advanced one. In terms of the interior, have a look below and you will be able to see part of the bedroom as well as the photography studio, the kitchen and wardrove. Out of sight are the office, the living room,.... and the spare room for guests...

The bathroom?.... don't be ridiculous, this is just a small tent!!

My place is your place...

The next day, Saturday, was a rainy one. I had breakfast in the campsite kitchen, and for a few hours read a couple of articles in the Nat. Geographic mag. that someone had forgotten on the table about Moscow and meteorites. I enjoyed it.

Just around midday Michael and I headed towards Ardlui, just a couple of miles away to see the local Highland games. On the way we saw Thomas and Lewan that joined us. The games took place by the shore of the Loch Lommond in a caravan park. There was a canopy with drinks and another one with bbq.

First it was the kids games, and Welly throw for women. and then it came the Scottish giants games. There was that one where you try to turn a massive trunck tree, then shot putt, and then throwing a weight hunging from a chain as high as possible. And rope pulling.

The athletes warmed up with beer whiskey and meat rolls. Ardlui won in the end, but everybody had fun. Thomas and Lewan left soon. Michael and I were welcome in the canopy for the party. Whiskey and beer flowed. Michael really enjoyed the evening; so much that could not resist to try the cold waters of the lake.... naked.

From there we were invited for an amazing dinner, and then party in the Ardlui hotel. we met lots of people. The number, and the whiskey, makes difficult to remember all of you names (my apologies).

I should say, that everybody was extremely nice and we were treated like one more of the group of friends. Special mention to the owner of the place, his wife and family. Also, Michael and I were invited somewhere to sleep after we left the hotel, at 5 am.

Back in the camping, partly recovered from the last night drinking, and continued the WHW on my own; Michael had problems with his leg and decided to take a train. We might meet later on.

Thomas and Lewan

The path continued to run by the A82. I went into a beautiful forest by West of Crianlarich. I think I liked it because it was not so dense as other connifer forests I have seen before, and the path was winding on an up and down terrain.

The weather was quite bad, very wet. I met a german couple that had ponchos to keep themsleves dry. But this ones were much better than mine: they were like a big rucksack cover with a raincoat attached to it. I will try to get one when I get to Fort William.

It was good to get to the camping. The guy in the reception was very nice and talked about british accents and cricket. The field was really wet, but at least the campsite had a small kitchen where you could eat comfortably.

In the kitchen I met a german guy that had just bought a Nikon D300. I had the chance to take a couple of pictures with it, and it was like a machine form the future...It'll be mine... some day.

Having dinner

From Tyndrum, and continuing the WHW the following days, there would not be many places to buy food and other stuff, so I went to the local shop to buy some food. And stayed in the pub for a few drinks and diary update.

On monday, while having breakfast, I met Ian. A highschool teacher from Manchester. We walked together the first 15 Km of the day. Interesting conversations about education, and other things.

Ian with Beinn Dorain behind him. The first Munro (Scottish mountains higher than 3000 feet, 914 m.) I see in my walk.

Ian is a young fit guy, but was having some problems with his right knee ligament. He was in pain for some part of our walk together, specially when going up hill. He stayed in Inveroran, and i continued to walk towards the Black Mountain area.

I stopped to have a can of rice pudding and some water and fitted the long lense in my camera- the place where I was walking looked like those pictures with Stags on them. I could not see anything apart from small birds, and I was feeling that I was missing some scenic pics that needed the wide angle lense. The weather was still very cloudy, but the few clears in the distance and the changing light made good pictures.

From the slopes that go down the hill to King's House I could see the East entrance of Glen Coe, a very nice valley that I plan to visit in the next few days. King's House was just a hotel, and there was not camping. When i approached the place some midges began to be a pain, which was strange because they normally don't come to you if you are moving. There were thousands of them next to the building. I started pitching the tent on a small field a few metres form the river, and it was a nightmare. Thousands became millions. A woman saw scene from the nearby pub (me waving and pitching the tent at the same time) and came to lend a head net. She run back indoors.

From the bridge by Beinglas campsite

I had my dinner, in the tent, and saw how the bloody midges were finding their way inside. Luckily the bastards were not coming for me, and stayed on the "walls" of the tent. It was easy to kill them, KILL THEM ALL!!!!, just with a wave of my hand. I came out of my tent to see with horror, that the millions had become billions, and my tent was surrounded. I waved my hands and went through a dense cloud of them, so dense that I could feel hundreds of them crashing against my arms. I run towards the pub.

Inside, there were no midges, just people. Had some desert and a few beers and a couple of violinists came in. They had something to drink and played some nice celtic music that really fot woth the scenery outside. When I left the pub the midges where gone, home, or the midges pub, or hopefully to the midges hell!!!

The next day i got up quite early. I began walking towards the entrance of Glen Coe. It was cloudy although there were bigger clears in the sky. Just before me a rainbow formed very quickly. it was like the Glen Coe gate. It also disappeared fast.

Before entering Glen Coe, I turned right up the hill following the WHW. From there, I could see one or two of the "Three Sisters", a group of hills by the A82 that I photographed from the Late Peakers van when we did the 3 Peaks Challenge.

Leven valley

Yesterday i just walked 3 hours. The walk down to the Leven valley was easy, and sunnier than the other side of the valley. I saw some fighters passing very close.

Kinlochleven looked like a new built village, with a modern climbing centre (Paco, you would have loved the place: in and outdoors climbing wall, ice wall, and sauna!), and new school with a sport centre. I stayed in Blackwater hostel by a powerstation that uses the waters coming from the hills. The place was cheap, £13 a night en-suite, but it was even cheaper fro me: free. The banner was making its job! And talking about the banner, I think it is about to die: it is not firm any more, and looks like a wet paper. I'll try to find a printing place in Fort William to print a new one. When leaving the hostel for the daily drinks I met Michael that had managed to sort out his leg problems. We had a few drinks in the climbing centre bar.

Blue sky in Kinlochleven

Today I began walking at 8 am. I really wanted to get early to Fort William and update the blog. I follow the WHW up the hill first and though a wide valley later. Coming outside the valley there was the option of leaving the WHW and continue in a more direct route to Fort William on a country. I chose the quick option and form the road I could see Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain.

Ben Nevis summit crowned by some clouds.

It was a pleasure to get to the town. It was busy, and I think I have mentioned before how much i like seeing lots of people after I few days in "the wild". I had something to eat and came straight forward to the internet cafe.

Me in Fort William High Street

I will stay in Glen Nevis youth hostel for a week. As you know, I will be meeting Jeremi, Karen, Lyndon, Dan and Dyeison on the 22nd friday to walk the Knoydart peninsula. We'll meet in Invergarry, which one or two days walk form here, so i have 7 spare days (hard life this one of mine...) to basically do nothing: read newspapers, go for a swim and the gym, maybe hire a bike and visit Glen Coe, Highland games tomorrow...Sounds good!!!!

I will update the blog before leaving for Invergarry, and let you know if I have a fantastic or just a very good week at Fort William.

That is all for now. All the best.

Carlos

Glasgow

2008-08-04T06:36:00.000-07:00

Hi all

I am in Glasgow city centre.

Nice Faye, Elisa and the duracell batteries dog.

From Corehouse farm, Faye B&B, Glasgow was within walking distance, but I decided that it would be much better to do the distance in a couple of days. On saturday I started walking around 10 after a wonderful breakfast. I walked up the Clyde for half an hour or so, two cross it a walk at the other side of the river. All of this in a wood on a well marked path.
Soon I walked by the Clyde falls

Clyde falls

And not much later I arrived to New Lanark. The place, was built on the XVIII century as a wool mill factory. The owner of the factory built houses, nice ones, for his employees, and educated them, not only on reading and writting but also arts, history, and set up a library too. The place, between Lanark and the river is in the wooded hills that look at the river. Nice place, worth visiting. There is a youth hostel there too.

I went up the hill to Lanark town centre. The place is quite nice and I got quite a lot of donations. While I was shopping in Tesco, muffins and other things too, people would not stop coming to give me donations, small ones, butg everything counts. While i was eating outside the superstore, muffins and other things too, it was raining like hell.

For the day I had planned to follow the Clyde walkway. For the first bit I did not have map, and took the wrong side of the river, what made me walk on a road for a couple of hours.
For a while, at least up to Invergarry, I will be using 1:50000 OS maps instead the more detailed 1:25000. I will save some money by doing this, and I don't need the 1:25 because form here to the Knoydart I will follow very well singed posted long distance trails, the West Highland Way, and the Glen.. something way.
When I managed to cross the river, with some local knoledge aid, the walk run on a nice path by the river, once more in woodland. Soon, the wood disappear, and gave way to fields.

Crops fields south of Motherwell

I had bought some pork meat and beans, so I cooked it by the river. Nice place for something good. I did not have any chocolate for desert. Mistake, BIG mistake.

Cooking in the wild!!

Then, landscape begun chaging in more than one way. First, the noise of nearby big roads and farms like this one:

Farm land with Motherwell "skycrappers" at the horizon.

An then, the people. There were groups of people with childre enjoying the relatevely good weather, a few fishermen, and then, the drunks!

Families enjoying the river and the weather, but further up the river...

It was so weird to meet these guys, semi-naked, very drunk, on the countryside, and simply being annoying with whatever cross their way. One of the groups was formed by an unconcious semi-naked guy, standing; then the brainy one asking for a lighter; and the third one verbally abusing and threatening me (I guessed he was being nasty to me because between all the things he said, I could pick up some "....foocking.......,..... foocking.... foocking...). On the meantime, their nice friends were running with sticks after the calfs in a nearby field.... I guess they were paying their pub failed flirting adventures with the poor cows...

The picture above shows (sorry the lack of detail) one of the "cowboys" (the small white bit) chasing the poor animals. I did not take a picture of the commented three, taking into account the last stabbing and shooting stories in the Glasgow area.

I bumped into more drunks on my way, annoying but not rude, and the rest of the walk up to Strathclyde reservoir was nervous and unsettling.

I should say, however, that nice people is everywhere too, and Jenmy, very patiently gave me a hand to find my way.

The atmosphere was completly different once i got to the mentioned lake in Motherwell: mainly families and couples walking on the path by the shore.

Actually, by the time I took this picture, danger was gone.

At the other side of the water I could see a theme park with many of those devices i would not get into, not even drunk. As I said, the change of atmosphere was a relief, but I was very tired and the feet were aching.
The camping was at the north end of the reservoir.
The tendons that connect the toes with the feet were sore. Better in the sandals.

On the next day I walked in sandals, and the soreness diminished. It was time for another urban walk. it took me three and a half hours to get into central Glasgow, through Uddington, generally speking not too dodgy areas, excepting the last bit before actually getting into the centre. I had a couple of heavy showers, and i passed by the Premier Inn where i stayed with the Late Peakers for the Three Peaks Challenge, a few years ago.

Waitin for the rain to stop

I got to Glasgow before 2 pm. I walked by the Clyde again looking for the hostel. The place does B+B for £15 a night, in dormitories. Good atmosphere, and breakfast, recommended.
After the ususal cleaning duties in the hostel, went for a walk and bought some more maps

Dusk at Strathclyde theme park

In the evning i went to the cinema and saw Wall-E. Very good, also recomended. There is a bar, Osmosis, on the hostel gorund level. I chilled out there before going to bed, while i wrote my diary.

Glasgow from the air.

Today, monday, the sun was shining in the morning, and is still shining. The frst thing I did was looking for a swimming pool. I needed to take a train to it, 5 minutes, and swam for 30 minutes. Back in the centre, had a light lunch, and here I am updatting the blog. The rest of the day, I will continue to do nothing which is great: read the paper, buy some food for the week coming, go for a drink...

Waiting for train back to the centre

Everytime I updated the blog, it was a real pain having to tidy up the text I had written that was a big mess, where pics would be in the wrong place, and there would be big gaps between text blocks anb pics. I found a way to avoid the mess, so i don't have to do any extra work!

Me in George Square, Glasgow.

Tomorrow i start walking the West Highland Way. The "villages" on my way are not more than small groups of houses, so i don't know when I'll be able to update the blog again. I am planning to be in Fort William in7 or 8 days time, and then it's 2 days walk to Invergarry where I am meeting Jeremi and Co. This gives me lots of free time that I don't know very well how I use. Resting is one of the options.

After the walk in Knoydart, I am pretty sure I will walk Skye and Lewis.

The boots are still being a problem, the next 7 days will decide if they adapt to my feet or i need to buy something else.

That is all for now.

All the best.

Carlos

Phil and first Scotland sight

2008-08-01T10:31:00.000-07:00

Dear all.

I am in a beautiful B&B near Lanark.

Phil, having a rest.

After the extremely long update in Newcastleton library, we went straight for lunch in the village cafe. Baguette and scampi made it for us. More interesting talking. We solved some of the global crisis going on in the world right now...

.... by the way, my clothes and tent are hanging outside, drying, and it is raining so much, that I don't even think in moving form the sofa I am sitting on...

After that, we took the road that approximately in three hours would take us to Langholm. After a quick climb, we walked through a narrow road with almost no cars. The landscape was a hilly moor, that for some reason was part of a country that was not England. I did not rain, and world saving conversations continued. On our way, a lady stopped her car for a £5 donation

The camping at Langholm was just part of the grounds of the rugby pitch. In my opinion, "Skin so Soft" worked this time. I the trick is putting lots of it on, and making sure you cover every single bit of exposed skin.

We did not have any food. Many of you, Phil as well, know about my food requirements: lots and often. The fact of not having any food and not knowing what would be available in the village, made desperately hungry, and the short walk to Langholm town centre, was an agonising one not knowing if I would have to eat a local, or two. Pubs had just stopped serving food, and the bloody fish&chips we had been told about was not 100 yards away, actually did not exist.

I was about to die, depressed.... everything went back to normal when we found an opened coop supermarket. Cold dinner. One of the best of my life. Back in town we had a couple of Tennent's tops, and talked about music and science.

By the way: do you know the arquimedes principle? Any of the readers would be able to explain why the lifting force goes UP, and not in any other direction? Clue: it is curious, but the lifting force that opposes gravity is caused by one of the effects of gravity on fluids. (No kidding, there is a simple answer for the question).

"Happily", we left the pub and had another short night sleep.

Next day, Tuesday, up before 6 am. Went back to town for buying a generous breakfast, although the bacon baguette could have been more... full of it...

The walk to Eskdalemuir (you Spaniards, try and pronounce it, I still struggle) was made on roads again. The landscape has radically changed: isolated hills, with large conifer forests. No houses, and just a few cars a lorries in the road.

My new boots. They're ok, but hurted me a bit

Apart from that, rights of way don't exist up here, and there are just a few marked footpaths on the ground. My boots were hurting me a little bit, and after the walk, my feet were slightly swollen. It rained a bit, and kept on walking about own-life saving issues. Eskdalemuir is too small to call it a village, and the Budist monastery where we stayed were just a mile away from it.

Colours!

Seeing the monastery, with its colours and flags, in the middle of nowhere in Scotland was just weird. But I should say that I liked the place. The atmosphere was very good, quite, and calm. There was a cafe, with Internet. We got a couple of single rooms, simple but nice, and the best: the food was excellent. I, once more, was concerned about food supplies; you know, monks, trying to keep themselves away from sin, and I think, that the way I eat, it definitely is sinning; so there was my concern. But no, I was wrong. Plenty of food, and good too. And the bread, unforgettable.

Dusk by the river at Eskdalemuir monastery

Just after dinner, we went for one of the day prayers. I am not into Buddhism, and not any other kind of religion, but I found the praying relaxing, apart from not understanding a word of they were saying.

And then it happened. 5 years ago I had the only cup of tea I had in my life. And it was enough. On Tuesday evening, just before bed, Phil prepared for me a cup of tea. I will not say I enjoyed as much as one of my pints, but I drank it without any disgust feeling. unbelievable!

Cooling feet down in the river

Before going to bed completed my diary. On Wednesday up again soon for an amazing, sinning, breakfast.

It was time to go for Phil. We really enjoyed our time together, and for sure, the world is now a better place.

Phil's bus to Newcastleton

For the first time since I began the walk, I ran out of maps. I knew roughly speaking where I wanted to go; hopefully Moffat. The roads that safely would take me there, where a long way round, so I really wanted to use the tracks I could see in my map; tracks that would disappear at the edge of the map. I checked in the OS website to see where those tracks were going. After a while, the one I wanted turned south in the "wrong"direction. From the turn, to the Southern Upland Way (SUW), a long distance trail that would easily take me straight into Moffat, there were a couple of miles of first open fell up the hill, and then conifer forest down. It looked easy, so I went for the direct root.

I used the boots in the beginning of the walk, but I had to swap them for the sandals as my feet turned very sore. The day soon turned awful, and began raining, and it was windy, the charted track went up through forests, and finished soon according to my planned route choice. Boots on again. The next, was a hilly moor, that disappeared in the mist up the hill:

Have you seen Rob Roy???

So, what could go wrong? It was easy: just a couple of miles of no-path terrain. The climbing was not too hard, soft and wet but stable terrain. The rain and the wind though a real pain. I could not see much further away from my nose. Just compass and instinct. Reached the top of the ridge, jumped the fence, and just after beginning down hill, I saw the forest line. I closer look showed an impassable wood. Not too big conifers, but low branches that would have made impossible to walk through. So, no where to go. Remembering what I had seen on the computer screen in the morning, the forest edge would continue North (I needed to go west the reach the SUW) until it turned west at some point. So that was the way then. I walked by the edge of the forest, feeling more lonely than ever: unknown outcome for my little adventure in completely unknown terrain. To my relief, after a while, the mist cleared up a bit, and could see that beyond the trees there was a valley that contained the path I wanted o reach.

A tempting gap

There were gaps in the forest, and I was tempted to use them, but I could not see the bottom of the valley, so I could I found myself blocked on my way down, and climbing back would have been extremely difficult. I continued to walk in the edge of the forest; the hill became more steep and although not unsafe, very unconfortable to walk on.

After a small ridge, the edge of the forest turned 90 degrees left, and finally I could see I direct route, down the fell the marked long distance path.

A valley, descending to the SUW

From there, easy 3 hours walk to Moffat. I could finish the walk in the boots.

In Moffat, after the usual cleaning and feeding activity, went to the pub for diary updating. Too much (for a Wednesday) pale ale (that was almost as dark as Guinness) in the Black Bull.

Yesterday, Thursday, I got up and went straight to the shop for breakfast and food. And looked for maps for the following days. I tried to find a route that used mainly tracks, but all of them finished in a forest that could be a dense impassable one. So I opted for the easy route, and walked all the way in roads, by the A74 motorway. I had a little bit of sun in the beginning, but soon the day turned miserable and rained all that way to Abington

Moffat from the surrounding hills

Landscape continued to be round big hills with forests, but after a while the forest began to disappear and gave way to naked fells. My clothes were wet, and my tent too, so I looked for a B&B in Abington. There were not any, and the hotel was very expensive. Camping then.

Surrounding landscape

This morning, rained heavily, and had to wait to get out of the tent. At this point I would like to mention, that although the force of the rain was not less than torrential, not a single drop got in the tent. I am very happy with it. Condensation problem disappeared, maybe because nights are being windy and allow better ventilation, and although small, I have organise so that I have my bedroom, my kitchen, storing room, and even an office and bathroom. No kidding.

Some nice scenery on my way to Lanark

It was time for another walk mainly on roads. More naked fells, and plenty of sun in the middle of the day. The banner got me a couple of donations, and a finger up from a passing car... and it was not a thumb... wankers, they are everywhere.

Oh!, so nice

I walked quickly, and stopped just once before getting to the B&B. I walked all the way on boots, and they were not too much of a problem. Maybe feet and boot need to adapt to each other.

From Lanark, I expect to be in Glasgow on Sunday.

B&B landlady was reading my blog in other computer. She liked it! And thinks my spelling is terrible!!! :) I think there is some food waiting for me.

So I leave you with a sequence of images of the poncho-on action. It shows both natural and learned skill, and lots of fun. :)

Just had my dinner. Invited by the Faye, the lovely landlady, and cooked by Eliza, her helper from Italy. We had pasta, al dente. Delicious.

The best of the night, Faye's dog. She had a vampire puppet as a toy. She would bring it to you and as she squeezes it in her mouth, the puppet says: "I come to suck your blood" over and over again.... ha ha ha!!

That is all for now.

All the best

Carlos

Alex and the length of a country.

2008-07-28T02:37:00.000-07:00

Dear Alex:

It was such a pleasure to meet you and family and frineds last tuesday. The traveler's rest is a wonderful pub, adn having just the bar available did because that private party did not make any difference. I had a great time, and my first pub lock in!!

It was a plasure to speak with you about cricket, tennis and football, to sadly realize that probably Arsenal will not win any trophies this season.... hopefully, we are wrong.

I would like to thank you so much for giving your cricket ball to me. I dumped the fake one in my rucksack, and I carry yours in my pocket all the time. This ball will travel with me all the way through Scotland, and will finally see the North sea by John O'Groat's sometime in september. Thank you so much!!

Alex.

I slept quite well on that night, in the camping nearby Dalton, but not enough as I had once again, a nice headache, "thanks" to the lock in night. In the morning I discovered that part of my breakfast had dissapeared: the chorizo pack was empty, and the chesse, including the package was missing. I don't remember if I left the tent opened or not, but a have a suspect for the crime:

Suspect

Anyway, I left Dalton with the nice memory of the best night of the walk so far, and not only because of you Alex, but also due to nice company of your mother Anne, that was extremely nice and kind, and Keith, the local builder that looks at least ten years younger than he actually is, and John, an old 3.500 acres farmer, with whom I briefly spoke about interested farming issues... I learned a few things.

Camping in the farm near Dalton

The day, on wednesday, it was cloudy in the begining, but I got plenty of blue skies by the end of the day. The walk began on country lanes, then a short bit in a noisy double cariageway, and straight into a footpath by the river Tees, that I followed up to Barnard castle, where I stopped for a meal in a pub, and a bit of a rest ( I was feeling a bit rough still). Later on I walked, already in tha sun through a few fields, leaving the river behind, and entereing in a very dense forest where a nice stream was running. Fresh, light filtering through the branches of the trees and, and the souond of the water. Very pleasant.

You don't get many sunny days like this one, so farmers rashed to get this type of work done.

Once I left the forest, took a few more country lanes towars Middleton-in-Teesdale. I was quickly surrounded by the hills of the North Pennines, that I would walk the next day. The camping at Middleton had a bar, which was very convenience for dinner and drinks. By this time, my head was already recovered from the night at your place, Alex, but I was feeling quite tired, so I went quickly to the tent.

The plan for the next morning... well, to be honest with you Alex, I had no plan fo the next day. I had to walk through the Pennines, and that can be slower and more difficult than I might thought when I look at the map. So I took tha path, without knowing where I would finish on that day.

Thursday was one of those days when the rucksack seems to be much heavier that the day before, although it is actually the same weight!. So, for the whole day, I had a sore back, and it was hurting me on the hips too and i got a strange looking blisters there.

In the day I walked in a mixture of paths and lonely roads. Sometimes following the Pennine way. No far from Middleton I visited High Force, an impresive 21 metres high water fall. I have observed that since I entered the Pennines a few weeks ago, the streams are red coloured, containing some kind of reddish sediment. Up here though, the red colour is not so intense, and some of the streams I crossed were colourless.

Me at High Force

Facing the last bit of the Pennines

As the day passed by, I realized I was going to make it to Alston, which right at the North side of the Hills, the end of the Pennines for me. So I walked, always in slight pain in the hips and in the back, to a nice spot by the South Tyne where I had a deserved lunch, expecting to reach Alston by 8 pm more or less. The day had been cloudy at the top of the hills, but down in the valley it wqas nice and sunny, and once again, it smelled like summer, with a not too warm sunset sun from the west, and a continous refreshing breeze form the east.

Luch by the South Tyne

Just before reaching Alston, I met a belgium couple that were cycling to Scotland. I met them too later on in the hostel at Alston, we had dinner together and then went to the pub for a quick couple of pints. The midges were again being very anoying.

A house in the south hills of the North Pennines.

An another one in the north side

In the next moring breakfast, I got to know that the army uses a mosturising cream called "Skin so nice" that apparently keep the midges away. The day was absolutly beautiful, and strangely enough, the rucksack was feeling very light on friday morning. I walked following first a steam railway line and then a dismantled one. Easy walking, and not very long, just about five hours, to greenhead.

The camping at greenhead is just a field by an old lady house, toilets an showers, but, would you need anything else in a camping??? Not me. So perfect then!

After eating and doing the daily cleaning duties, I took a bus to Haltwhistle. I did some shopping and I tried to update this blog, to let you Alex know how I was doing.I coudn't as the computer system in the library did not like uploading blog sites. So, feelling myself lost, with no hope, and not knowing where to go, I headed to the pub. The Black Bull. I can recomend it, for when you are old enough to get in pubs, over the ones that are close to Haltwhistle station.... and they have London Pride!!!!

Haltwhistle crazy people!

I lost the 8 pm bus back to the station, and I did not fancy waiting up to ten for the next one. So I walked for 1 hour back to Greenhead, that as you must be thinking Alex, it was like a stroll in the park for me.

I had a quick dinner while I got my face and legs eaten by the bloody midges, and selpt well. On the next morning, tuesday, I got up early, and took the train to Newcastle. I needed to buy a new pair of boots ( I don't know if I mentioned to you in the Traveller's Rest, that the ones I had were almost "dead", and the pair that afew frineds brought to me the last weekend were losing their soles), updating the blog, buying maps, and maybe go to the cinema to see The Dark Night, and go for a swim, all of this bearing in mind that I would meet Phil around 3 pm at the station. The library was having works done, and there was a film session for batman at 10:45, so I saw the film. The gave 5 stars to the film in the Times. I don't think the film was that good, but Heath Ledger, was absolutely amazing as the joker. That is acting! He actually became the Joker, and a very scary one. Recommended.

Me in Newcastle.

After that I bought a new pair of boots, and "Skin so nice", the midges repellent.. we'll see.... I bought the maps, visited the river, and met Phil in the O'Neals by the station.

I really liked Newcastle. Have you been, Alex? Nice wide streets in the city centre, lively by the river, and the whole city looked like going to a party... I really liked it!!

Phil and I had lunch.... (dinner for Phil) at Pizzahut (nice meal by the way), and got the train back to Haltwhistle. Made some shopping, and got lost again, no bus, no hope, no nothing... the Black Bull and more London Pride; sad life this one....

English men (the one in yellow is Phil) discussing geographic issues, and scientific ones!

In the camping we were eaten by midges once again, and decided to get up very early in the morning the next day. it was 5:30, a record for me. Starting walking at 7:30, in the fog. We quickly joinned the Hadrian's wall looking for a roman road that went in the right direction for us. The map says, remains of Roman road. There was as much remaining of the road as the soldiers taking care of it 2000 years ago: notihng. So the walk, towards Bewcastle (remains of) was quite difficult: wet and unstable terrain, reminded me Dartmoor, but no so bad.

The black bull at Hatlwhistle

The fog dissapeared, and we a beautifull second half of the day. From Bewcastle we walked 90% on country lanes. The landscape really felt like a border place to me; difficult to define, no flat, no hilly, "owned by no one".... Big masses of connifers began to appear in the horizon, landscape that you would not find in the England that we were about to leave behind.

Walking in the fog and in connifer woods.

The boots, the new ones, were behaving well, and we went through a few fords, and proved to be really water-proof. However, they were feelin a bit heavy, and we were actually not needing them for walking on a road (a deserted one) so we put our sandals on. I showed to be a good idea, adn we waled quicker and better. Phil was getting some blisters:

Making some repairs...

Wrinckly feet...

Then, we got to a point where we actually saw the border coming closer and closer. We actually saw some Scottish hills beyond the next connifer wood. Went through the forest, winding road towards Liddel Water, and there it was: Scotland. And what it means, I have now walled the length of a country, this beautiful country of yours Alex: rights of way, fields, streams and woods, stiles and kissing gates, towns and villages, pubs, and lost of beer, and cider too. And the country of Cricket.... this though, my only dissapointing so far. I mean, I am leaving the England without having been able to see a cricket game.... well, I guess there will always be next summer...

Just on the bridge over the Scottish border on Liddel Water river

Let's walk another country then! And then realizing, how my life changed in the last few months; and how unexpected would be from before those months to see me doing what I am doing now. I guess everything is possible, in a very possitive way.

The plan was getting to Newcastleton, but we actually stayed in Sorbietrees. A B&B just outside the town. I should recommend the place if you ever come up here Alex, as it is in a beautiful location, the house itsefl is huge and carefully and finely decorated, they have animals, the breakfast was huge and very good, and Sandy was a never ending smile extremely kind and nice hostess. And the place is cheap for the quality. She treated us very well, and after our shower she gave us a lift to town for dinner, picked us back to the B&B later on.

We ate at the Grapes hotel. A obscene dinner.... It made me sweat, very good!!

Saying goodbye to Sandy

Now we are in town, Newcastleton, and Phil is being very patient waiting for me while I write this long letter to you Alex. So thanks to him! In themeantime he is making some repairs to his boots:

I am impressed!!

Today we just have a short walk to Langholm, in the next valley (4 hours I think), an on a road. So we should be there by 6 or 7.

And that was all for the moment. I hope you liked my letter, and follow my blog for my Scottish walk.

Dear Alex, truly yours.

Carlos.

Rest weekend and national security threats

2008-07-22T06:26:00.000-07:00

Hi all

I am in Richmond, a lovely village in North Yorkshire.

Richmond main square

After leaving the library in Harrogate I went to a pub in the town centre for a few pints and planning the following days on the maps. Then I went to the Wetherspoon free house for a curry and the last pint of the night. The pub is a huge building with very high ceilings and very good atmosphere. After that I headed to the camp site and had a nice sleep.

In the morning, threatened rain, but it hold up so that I could pack tent and things in dry conditions. Later I had very light rain but I did not need to use my poncho. Before leaving harrogate I quickly went through the town centre to change a map that I actually did not need.

Before starting walking I phoned David, Liz's Dad, to let him know that I would get to Ripon just before the duck race (?????) at 6. Later on I realize that I would get to Ripon much earlier and we rearranged the meeting.

The walk run through easy walking paths and fields in a grey gloomy day.

Once in Ripon and after meeting David and Elaine (Liz's Mum) had a shower and we all went to the duck race. I eventually knew that the duck race was a fundraising event where 1000 yellow plastic ducks are released into the river in Ripon town center, and flow to a certain point. Each duck have a number attached and the first, second and third one have a prize. it was very curious seeing all those ducks coming in the river, and seeing the real ones just wondering what the hell is coming down the river!

The duck race in Ripon.

After the race, barbaque, and back "home" for doing some cooking. I cooked my world famous rice pudding (arroz con leche) whike having one or two lagers, and a few glasses of Shiraz, my arm twisted on my back, I swear.... ;) I should say that I was very happy with the outcome of my cooking, and this rice pudding was at least as good as the one I cooked 5 years ago in Javi and Zoraida place in London. Well done to me.

By the time Will, Liz, Paco, and Djeison arrived it was almost midnight, and I had just finished cooking, and was nicely pissed thanks to the tireless persinstence of David, and his hard work on filling up my glass, arm twisted once again...

We decided, that on the first day of my rest weekend in Ripon we (Paco, Will, Djeison and myself) would walk the three peaks of the Yorkshire dales. A 40 Km walk, with three summits to climb in the middle. Liz and Elaine had a nice shopping day at York, and David went umpiring a cricket game.

On saturday we woke up at 5 am, as a beginning for my rest day. At 8, we were in the car park, that was already full at such an early hour. The first peak was really close to us and we could see it behind a cloud on top of us. Once we got into the cloud, and reached the ridge that would take us to the top of the peak, horrible wind a rain started. As you know I have a poncho to keep myself dry, and it was like wearing a kite in the wind. I managed to not to start flying.

Top of the first peak. Awful wheather conditions.

The rest of the day we had a bit more rain, but generally it was ok. We even had very far nice views of the sea and the Morecambe Bay.

Amazing views from the ridge of the second peak, with the third one in the distance.

Down to the car park, the walk was not very long, but fel like it were: we were really tired, and really looking forward to get "home" and eat.

Nackered after finishing the walk

Paco cooked lentils, and I made a tortilla, both succesful. For sunday we had a climbing day planned.

The weather was good this time. Brendham Rocks (not sure about the spelling) is an area used in Orienteering too, and has many curious rock formations. Everybody tried the climbing excepting Elaine and myself. I really wanted to try, but I also needed to have a real rest day.

Liz: still long way to go to the top

David, the master, showing us how to do it.

Will, finding his way up the hill.

Paco showing off his skills

And Djeison; probably the less experienced climber, but was a pleasure seeing him fighting to reach the top of each cliff. Unstoppable!!

Once back at home we had a very nice meal and Liz, Paco, Will and Djeison left.

I made some repairs on the banner and rucksack, and we Elaine David and myself went out for a drink before seeing the Ripon Hornblower: a guy that everyday, through the years, blow his horn at 9 pm to confirm that everything is ok in town, and look after the wellbeing of Ripon citizens overnight.

Ripon Hornblower

I would like to thank Elaine and David for giving us such a wonderful weekend. The best one of my walk.

Elaine and David

Yesterday monday, I had possibly the best day of summer in terms of weather; sunny and quite warm. I walked through well signed paths and hills and fields. I really pleasant day. I got lost a couple of times, but I found my way easily.

Very close to the camp site I was aiming for, and walking by a leisure reservoir, I saw the usual rabbits running away as i would approach them. There was a big bush near by where they could hide; three of the rabbits stayed by the edge of the bush, so try to get closer to them. I moved very slowly, and eventually I got very very close to them. I think I got 4 or 5 metres away from them, and I managed to shoot a few nice pictures.

When I was so close so that I was almost shooting from above i went down on my knees, and then they got scared and run away. This was a very strange happening; rabbits normally run away and hide when you are much more far away than 4 or 5 metres. Nice picture anyway.

The camping was a nice place, with a very recommendable pub, with nice expensive food, (not that I tried it but it looked like it). They had Black Sheep, nice ale!!

Today I started walking before 10. Overcast in the beginning, but now the sun is shining. Walked mainly in country lanes to reach Caterrick Garrison, a military village where there are military schools and do training as well. I had my long lens on, so I started tooking pictures, mainly of the barb wire fences, trying to get a nice pattern somehow.

There are four characters involve in the next story: "General" (G), "Sergeant" (S), Militar police (MP) and me. First of all, I would like to make very clear, that they were all very polite and nice, and not rude at all in any moment.

So, after taking a few of my pictures, I continued to walk, when a military security vehicle parked in front of me on the pavement. I made evasive manouvres, round the back of the car, but S cut my way, being quickly surounded by anemy forces when G joined him at my back. "so, you come for me" I said. "Yes"

I was being a security threat by taking pictures. "hey look, they are just barb wire fences, the picture could have been taken any where..." I said. G: "barb wire fences (suspicioues tone)?, why?" "well...". I sugested that they took the camera and delete the security breach pics, juts those ones, but G insisted in deleting all of them as he would do the curring head off gesture with his finger. "Wow!, you are walking Britain" S said, looking at my banner.

Pics gone, continued to walk. 10 minutes later, they were back, this time with a military police member in the car. She was extremely nice and polite to me, and asked me for my details. I was and am pretty sure that they are not going to do anything dodgy with them, but I "resisted" a bit, asking "what if i do not give them to you?". It was clear that I would not get anywhere so I gave them my name, adress and number. MP had a phone called and she answered: "no prob down here, national security threat under control".

Before they left I asked general, to be in a photo with me. He did not want to, I think he was shy. By MP, did not have much of a problem, and general showed to be as good photagrapher as a soldier...... and a security threat too!!! I laughed my way to Richmond.

National threat!

Time is running out in the library. Time to leave a find my today camping. I hope to see dan Edwards tomorrow.

Thanks for reading me.

Carlos

Nice Glen and sister donated £1 for EACH

Between Pennines and Yorkshire Dales

2008-07-17T07:14:00.000-07:00

Hi al

I am in Harrogate.

After leaving the library in Holmfirth I just walked an extra 30 min. to the camping. The field, although nosy had very nice views of just trees around it. Shower, washing up, and usual pub and pints for diary updating.

Met the locals, and really had problems to understand the guy talking to me; really dificult accent up here!

More feet pictures: this is what happend if you walk in the Pennine moors with "waterproof" shoes.

It would take me two days to reach Harrogate on wednesday. On the first day on tuesday I would go to Pudsey. The walk run first on country lanes and then through the suburbs of Leeds and Hurddesfield. The area is quite nice with beautiful hills and contours, but very populated and heavily industrialised.

The banner, as said before, does not stop giving me happy moments. This time a guy driving a boilers and heating repairs van stopped. As he did not have any money, he gave an a box with no one, no two, no three, but four double chocolate muffins. I loved the guy! Which takes me to comment my addiction problem with chocolate since I began the walk. There is no day without chocolate.. lots of it! The is no chocolate bar that survives the day, and chocolate biscuits packets (the whole of it) are like light snacks.... before a proper lunch or dinner...

And maybe this is why my mum says she does not see me losing any weight, but the other way round...

When I got to Pudsey, I decided to continue to walk to a camping near Leeds Int. airport. By this time the sun was shining, and as the feet were ok, I made to the camping by nine. Just before arriving I walked by a cricket game going on. Shame that I did not have time to stop. I hope to be able to see one, one of these days.

Although my feet have improved significantly (my new "1000 miles" double layer socks have a lot to do with it), I have a sore back now, and a small part of it at the top near the neck is a bit numb, so I guess there must be a pinched nerve somewhere in spine. I will worry when I can't feel my arse...

Thanks to the long walk on tuesday, I only had to walk for 4 hours yesterday, wednesday. The walk this time run mainly in pleasent footpaths. The day was quite gloomy in the morning but by the time I arrived to Harrogate it was nice and sunny, but a bit windy.

The caravan park where I am staying has the worst shower so far, but the place is not far from the town centre. Harrogate is full of expensive design shops, and people carrying bags from them. Something that called my attention was that I found difficult to find a pub in the town centre... I was about to ask. "excuse me, U know where can I find a pub???" ... in England...

A touch of yesterday in today's country lanes.

After the daily cleaning duties I had a huge lunch by the Harrogate war memorial (tripple choc muffin included, and chocolate biscuits packet), and updated my diary. Then last night, I had the best sleep in the tent so far.

A railway bridge near Harrogate

This morning had my breakfast in the tent, it was raining, and went for a swim. My back does not ache any more, but it is still numb.

After leaving the library I'll go for tea at Betty's (I'll give tea one more try; the last and first one was in Oxford, almost 6 years ago...), and then read the newspaper in a pub, if I find one...

Tonight, early to "bed". Tomorrow walk to Ripon, where at last I will meet Will, Paco, Djeison and Liz's family. Looking forward to the weekend

That is all for now.

I hope you are all well

Carlos

The Pennine Way

2008-07-14T06:36:00.001-07:00

Hi all

I am in Holmfirth, a small pleasent village south of Hurddesfiled.

Hey Julien, you were right, the cows love me!!! ;)

After leaving the library in Buxton I found a B&B in the town centre. The owner, Sandra, invited me for a nice meal. Lamb... MMMmmmm!!! After the shower went shopping and looked for a pub to have the usual pints, and update my diary. It was saturday, so the atmosphere would not suit a guy wearing sandals and a dirty trekking trouser. Found a quite pub and went to bed early.

On the saturday I had planned a short walk, it took 4 hours evntually, to the youth hostel in Edale. In the begining on the day it kept on raining, and it was quite windy too. Before leaving Buxton, posted some maps "home" (thank you Elena and Julien) and bought some more. I met a guy that not only knew Asturias but also knew that it never was conquered by the moros. Remarkable!!

Me, near Edale, with the Mam Tor at the back.

The walk began in the main road leaving Buston. The rain stopped soon and by the time I took the secondary road through a valley parallel to the Edale one, I could see some blue patches in the sky. The hills in this area are mainly big fields with sheeps.

Edale valley from the top of the Mam Tor

I left the road to climb the Mam Tor on an easy path, and had to remove the banner from my rucksack as it was very very windy. The Edale valley looked like a beautiful place from the top of the Tor, and from there I could see the hostel and a few camppings; I descended in no more than and hour and reached the hostel at 4 pm. The place is very beautiful, and there is a lot to do, including rock cllimbing and other adventure activities.

The view from my room in the Edale hostel.

I had a huge lunch, cleaned the camera and lenses and, obviously, headed to the pub in Edale village. Nice path 30 minutes walk, in sandals. The pub is the Nag's Head, that is the official start for the Pennine Way. Awsome, lovely place; huge too. The atmosphere on that saturday night was amazing. People singing, and local juices flowing.... I went for the Nag ale, of course. I met a few people. Ernei, from York, we are supossed to meet again in Harrogate, for tea a cakes, in Betty's. As I said the night was great and I had a "few" of Nag. I walked back to the hostel with Ernei, a former military, that had no problem with orientation in pitch black night. So, he found the way to the hostel, but had a few problems with my sandals, and the path condition. See the picture below...

The stuff in the left foot is mud. What I have in the right one I was pretty sure it was sheep shit...

The night was fun, the next morning wasn't... tipically. Headache, I wish I would not exist.... After the shower, and a proper breakfast I was ready to take on the Pennine way from the Nag's Head. At last, the sun was shining, and there were just a few clouds.

Edale village from the end of the footpath

Before continuing, I would like to tell you that the Edale valley has become my favourite place of the walk so far. The perfect walking holliday spot. Worth checking and coming.

The awsome Nag's Head

The plan for the day was reaching Holmfirth on sunday evening. I would follow the Pennine way mainly but I would also took a few shortcuts. The first one would be just climbing strainght the north hills of the valley, where I met some walkers and a couple of fell runners.

Hard work

After the climb I would follow the ridge until a stream that would take me North and northwest to reach finally the Pennine way in another ridge facing west. The plan did not quite worked as i got lost when I could not find the path by the stream. The place was a flat muddy and wet moor, but although quite wet, the mud in the place was strangly firm and compact, so it wasn't too bad. This Orienteering champion finally found his way and I began waking the P. way

Hey Jose, I spoke to you on the phone, just in this spot!!

I followed the way with the city of Manchester in the distance. The scenary was mainly moorland and I was impressed with some very long parts of the way that were paved with very big flat stones.

The pennine highway

The way finally reaches a stream that transformed into a huge gully that went down to a reservoir in Crowden where I stayed. I understimated distances and took me 8 and a half hours to reach Crowden. The camping was all right and had my first experince with midges, those tiny buggers form hell!. It was just 15 minutes while I was eating and almost got me mad. I am defenetly getting a repelant! I should also mentioned that on sunday had my first day of walking without any soreness due to blisters. Good!!

Pennine moorland

Today monday, I made the rest of the walk to Holmfirth. It did not rain yet, but it is quite a gloomy oveercast day. The walked was more of the same moorland, and took me four hours to reach the village. I still have to have a look a t the maps to decide where I will stay today, but I think I'll head to a camping 30 minutes walk form here, north of the village.

I think I'll be in Harrogate on Wednesday where I will rest for a day before meeting Will, Paco and Djeison in Ripon.

Everything going very well, thank you very much for reading me.

All the best.

Carlos

A gift.

2008-07-11T08:48:00.001-07:00

Hi all

I am carrying with me an MP3 that I use specially in "up the hill" moments.

I have some of my favourite songs in it. One of them is A&E from Glodfrap; song that I already new but that I rediscovered thanks to Karen. It sounds very profound, but then the lyrics seem a bit superficial, or maybe I don't get the meaning.

The clip is a bit weird, but eventually I liked it very much.

Here it is:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=5VPyso87fZU

Enjoy and tell me what you think.

Carlos.

PS: Since I saw the clip I have been looking for Nymphs in the English forests. None found... yet.

Into the amazing Pennines

2008-07-11T07:31:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am in Buxton.

A massive bull in the fields outside UtoxeterThe walk from Utoxeter into the Pennines was not so bad in terms of weather as yesterday, and it was sunny in the begining. A few minutes on the way and I had to stop to remove the banner from my bag and put the poncho on. It did not rain for too long, and eventually I had a decent day, mostly overcast but with patched of blue sky. I kept on walking through farming fields and in the distance I could see the soouth end of the pennines, that reminded me the looking like of the moors I have walked.

I had a lunch in Alton. A nice quite village. Fried a lamb steak and had it with beans and bread. The first gas canister run out, at last. Alton is close to Alton Towers, a theme park on a hill, just before the Pennines. I went round the hill hearing the Roller Coaster noise and people screaming.

Inmediatly after that went down to a ltlle stream and through a field that was a deer park. It is not the same as shooting them in the wild, but they ar beautiful animals still.

From there and after walking on a secondary but wide road I went up into the Pennine Hills. Seen from close, they certainly looked like the moors that I walked, but that was just the beginning.

Then I discovered the most beautiful landscape i have seen so far in my walk: narrow lanes, and very accesible and well signed posted foot paths everywhere, fields, for cows and sheeps, separated by stone walls, and ondulating hills with scattered trees, not big woods anywhere. And then it was how quite it was; my footsteps sounded like a thunder on all that silence.

Then I met Allan, Graham and June in Old Field farm. They were cutting sheeps wool, and giving them some kind of treatment. It was a lovely encounter, in a lovely place. Felt very authentic.

I continued to walk in this lovely place, nice shorrt grass fields, so that my waterproof shoes did not get to soaked...

I was really tired, but I was not in a hurry to get to where ever I was going to sleep that day; I was taking my time taking pictures.

In the end, and after 8 hours walking, found a camping barn run by the YHA in Butterton. It was full, but the guy in charge let me stay in the field behind his house. Had dinner quickly and went down to the pub in the village. The Black Lion, lovely place with nice atmosphere, and Cow Blonde, nice beer. I updated my diary and did next day plan. Back to the tent in the fine rain.

Today in the morning, it was raining when I woke up, so I waited until it stopped. Breakfast, some cheese and bread and go. Therer was a very heavy shower that got me at the bottom of a field, that made me feel the most miserable being on earth, but luckily the weather was so bad in the end. It did not rain anymore.

I bought something to eat in Longnor and had it while walking as i wanted to get to Buxton in time to update the blog. Eventually I deceded to do the whole today walk on roads, which was not too bad as they were not too busy ones and run in very nice landscape. got to Buxton early, and I might go for a swim in the local swimmingpool.

I don't know what i'll be doing tomorrow, but I think I'll look for a youth hostel to stay somewhere in hills.

That is all for now.

Take care.

Carlos

Wet. Urban. Very wet.

2008-07-10T02:01:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am in Utoxeter, north of Birmingham. I am close to the peak district where I will be arriving later on today.

The walk on monday was quite a wet one, so I had the opportunity to practice a bit more my putting-poncho-on-art. Yes, it rained. So many things are said about rain, most of them negative, but I have been learning new things about it. Rain can be knoledge, rain can be phylosophy, rain can make you think about life.

For example, if it were not for the rain, I would not have discovered something about my shoes. When I bought them in Blacks, in Horsham, they said they were waterproof. Thanks to the rain I know that, while my poncho is waterproof, my tent is waterproof, my walking shoes are as waterproof as a kitchen clothe. You just need 5 minutes of walking in a wet grass field, and they are full of water.

Another thing about rain, and closely related to my soaked waterproof shoes, is that wet things are not such a bad thing. I mean that there is something great about wet things: after a while, they get dry!! So it is not so bad.

And the last thing, nothig like a bit of rain outdoors, to make you aprecciate a nice dry sunny day.

Like the photography above shows, the day was not that awful and there was time to see a little bit of sunshine. The landscape changed and became a little bit like the fields and woods in Sussex, which was much more pleasent to walk on.

Just in the final approach for the camping near Bobington, I went through a knettles field, and they are not so bad beacuse after a while you stop feeling the stings....

Once again my banner made its impact in the camping and a I stayed for free, and got a free dinner: a nice Tesco Microwaved lasagne with brocoli. Awsome. After the usual shower and washing up I cycled (I also borrowed the camping cycle) to the Red Lion in Bobington. There, a couple of pints, planning and updating and was invited to have breakfast on the next morning.

The breakfast was really good, and had the opportunity to know who I think was the manager of the pub, Mathew Shaw. Generous on the breakfast, and in the donation for the charity. Thank you!!

Tuesday was a urban walk. The first part of tyhe walk, through country lanes, I made it on my sandals, while my waterproof shoes got dry hanging from my rucksack. In the first half of the walk I went through Wolverhampton, not the nicest place in the world, but I got another interview for the local paper Express and Star. I remember to have been in the city 5 years ago for the Virgin festival, when I was young.

I walked out of the city, already a bit in pain due to a couple of blisters in my heels. What followed was a few double carriage ways between wolverhampton and Cannock. Went through Cannock and quickly began walking in the Cannock chase, and nice connifer forest. On my way in the forest I asked for a camping to stay, a place that resulted to be a deserted field with a hose and a label saying "camping site", and I bumped into a group of Orienteerers, all of them having problems with control number 13. Surprisingly, they had not heard about the Southdowns spring gallopen champion..... they must belong to a a small crappy club I suppose...... :)

When I arrived to the "campsite", had dinner and went to "bed" quickly. I was very tired.

Next morning it was raining, and it was raining for the rest of the day. I did not learn new things about life and phylosophy this time, and i just wanted the rain to stop. No pictures, no nothing, just rain and walk wet.

Next stop was Utoxeter where I am now. I stayed ni B&B; it was time for a real bed.

Today I will contibnue to walk North and I will hopefully sleep somewhere in the peak district. Looking forward to it, but curious about how my legs will cope in the slopes.

Yesterday I spoke with my support team, Jeremi and Paco, and hopefully I should be getting a replacement for my waterproof shoes next week on friday, which will be great. Thank you both you!!

I would like to mention the banner flag again. It is impossible to explain how much support I am getting thanks to it. It is specially good when i go through bigger towns. Horns, thums up and cheerings from the cars, sometimes they even stop for a word or two, or for making a donation, or handing me some water. And then is all the faces reading the banner: faces in :-0, faces in :-), and even faces in :-/ not knowing very well what that "walking Britain" means. And then it is the amount of money raising: around £150 in the last week.

It really keeps me going. The picture below, although not very good, it is a good exmple of it.

And that is all for now. I might be updating the blog tomorrow afternoon, or saturday morning in Buxton, well into the Peak District.

Best wishes to everyone.

Carlos

2008-07-07T02:38:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am in Kiddermisnter

Another Cotswold picture

The nice old lady finally woke up and did not hit the table with her teeth. I did my shopping and i had lunch just after leaving Glocester. Weather was good again, and after the previous day long walk I deserved an easy one. I walked North looking for the river again. At the end of the day, before gettting to the pub, a very nice southern continous wind was blowing, in the severn plane; very nice scent as well.

It is not as bad as it looks like

The camping was run by a pub, the Haw Bridge Inn. The flag made its effect and had a free pint of Waldston, and £15 donation. The camping was fully booked, but they still let me to pith given the size of my tent.

The Severn from Haw Bridge

Planned the next day (saturday) and I decided to got all the way to Wolcester; a long way! Went to bed (ha ha so funny...) early and next day I got up at six am (record!!!!); had a can of rice pudding (arroz con leche), and rock on!

Planning.

It was raining when I woke up but it quickly stopped. The walk was gennerally boring, just lots of planes by the river, with farms. Worth mention Upton Upon Severn, nice village, where I got more donations and bought some medicines for my throat, that was not feeling too bad, but i really don't want it to get worse considering what i am doing. It's better now.

Before getting to Wolcester got another £10 thanks to the flag. I found a B&B, had a deserved shower and dinner and went out. I booked a ticket to the cinema. I saw Hancock, entertaining, not great. I also saw Quantum of Solace trailer, nexst Bond film' and that really looked cool!

Before the film I updated my diary in a lovely Austrian pub. They had Franziskanen. "Heaven, I'm in Heaven..."

Bed (a real one this time) and the best sleep of the trip so far, 8 hours straight. In themorning had a good breakfast and took me too long to pack my things, and boil some pasta for the day, and had a good telling off by the landlady... I left quickly.

Me leaving Wolcester

Went back to town to buy a few maps, and second breakfast, and beagan the walk with a bit of rain. Rain continued on and off, so i had to use the poncho. By the way, I have reduced the time it takes to put the poncho on from 10 minutes to 2 seconds. It's fine art now!!

The plan, for yesterday sunday, was walk until I found a pub to see Nadal's game. I saw the first two sets, until a drunk parrot (woman) got it her way and they change channels to see f****ng Coronation Street (el puto culebron de turno); good!

I left and i continued to walk looking for another pub. I did not find one with a screen and I arrived to the camping. It looked like a scene from Mad Max, with lots of crapy caravans, and not a single tent. A couple of inhabitants, suggested me to stay in the field crossing the double carriage way a 100 yards up the hill, so I walked 3 miles North, and found a lost nice field where to stay

So far I am feeling very well. Having blisters but they are healing quickly.

I have noticed a slight change in people; they are different here compared to the southwest country; can't explain it. I have also picked up a different accent that I can't neither explain nor reproduce, but it is deffenetly different.

My camping field near Hurtlebury

This morning, monday, I woke up quite early again, and I am plaining to walk to a camping west Dudley.
I am starting to feel a bit like a "rolling stone": just head north, and walk, and bit by bit the walk is being done. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing bad in it. I think I am just getting used to it, and the rucksack is feeling lighter and lighter, so I guess I am getting stronger.

I am looking forward to get to the Pennines. I think the scenary will be so much more interesting there.

That is all for now.

All the best

Carlos

Cotswolds

2008-07-04T05:11:00.000-07:00

Hi all

I am in Glocester.

Bath form the south end of the Cotswolds

From Bath I went up the hill and north into the Cotswolds. Soon, it began raining, but I won't complain as I think it was a plus considering the surrounding area: beautiful green hills, with fields with cows, and scattered small woods. I would say that this was the England I imagined walking.

The rain lasted as long as the terrain was ondulated. In the distance small patches of blue sky could be seen. Soon, the landscape became flatter with plenty of barley fields, and the sun began shining.

Just before having lunch in a picnic area by the motorway, I saw this in on of these barley fields:

If you look very close you'll see a little brown irregular shape in the field: the head of a roe deer (un corzo). I dropped my rucksack and picked up the camera with the 300 mm lense, found a way into the field and the stalking began. As I went into the field the animal saw me and it went down dissapearing into the barley. The poor thing did not count with all my years of experience hunting lions in the sabana with my bare hands.... Actually, the poor thing, could hear/smell me coming form miles away and run. The picture i took is not worth showing in this space.

Cotswold scenery

I continued to walk planing to camp wild in a field. It took a while to find the spot as all I could see were endless barley fields. In the end, I found it and just before pitching the ten I could hear something like a bark... coming form a dog with a really bad cold. Bark again, and again.... and then I saw andother roe deer in the next field down the hill. Grabbed the camera, and run towards the hedge, went through it and looked. The deer had gone to the fild where I was coming from, through the same hedge like 40 metres away from me. I just waited keeping down and waiting. I got lucky and I could see the deer walking diagonally towards me. Good!. I began shootong, motionless. The deer could hear the shutter, and meaybe see a shape, but did not run away as it looked directly to me.

The light was low. ISO 800. The VR system of the lens did its job.

Pitched the tent and just before dusk I could see Bristol lights in the horizon. Had dinner and "bed".

By the way. First 24 hours without a drop of alohol for a month....

The next morning I went straight to the village nearby to buy breakfast, another giant one. And then more walking. The objective for yesterday thursday was Stroud. The walked followed the west side of the Cotswolds hills, looking all the time to the Severn and the bridges from Bristol over it. The landscape reminded me the Southdowns with a very steep fall to the valley. From the hills i could see Wales, and the Brecon Beacons, in a beautiful sunny day.

Kept on walking, I was feeling that I really needed a shower and wash my clothes, so it would be a B&B in Stroud. I really was stinking...

Apart form that my feet were feeling pretty bad, and the last bit of the day walk, down the hill into the town, was a bit hard.

Found the place, and removing my shoes showed a few new blisters and a pair of generally swollen feet. A bit worrying to be honest, considering that almost, just began.

Had a burger for dinner, and a couple of hobgoblins form heaven, and went to have a deserved rest.

I did not sleep very well, I had a few bad dreams that I can not remember now, but that leave you with that depresing morning feeling, that, ;luckily is quickly taken over by reality: I nice sunny morning. The feet were still something to worry about, but I put some cotton wool padding on the them and so far today i have walked 3 hours to Glocester without any problem. I am in its library now, where, when i came in, i guy asked if i was friend of an unconcious homeless guy in the library hall. I wonder why...???! And right now, there is a lovely old lady, getting asleep with her hand on the computer mouse. Considering the she is sitter on an office wheeled chair, she might mark the table with her teeth.... I am watching out.

The plan now is walking straight north and camp in a camping by the Severn. According to the map, there is a pub right next to it. :)

That is all form the walk.

I hope you are all well.

Carlos

The perfect hill

2008-07-02T02:34:00.000-07:00

Hi all

I am in Bath, and once again i don't have much time for updating the blog. Let's see what I can do.

Last tuesday before the fetival I went up Glastonbury Tor. The place is beautiful: round little hill, with awsome views. The sunset was looking like promising too, but eventually it was not that great. The tor it self is bigger than what I had thought. Took a few pictures and quickly descended the hill as it was quite chilly and i had forgotten my jacket (the same one that I almost eat two days before...)

On the next day I took the shuttle bus to the festival, and the first impressions were really good. A whole valley, ready to party, and hundreds of people arriving to the place. Great! And it was sunny. Put the tents up, and I had a few hours before Paco arrived to the festival, so I took my camera and went exploing.

Lots of people still arriving and stands and stages being put up. Although the music would not begin til friday there was already some music in small places.

Canadian singer. Beautiful voice.

Then Paco arrived. What happened in the following four days, is legend. And I think Paco and I will remember it (most of it...) for ever.

Woo hoo hooooooooo, hoooooo, yeaaaaaaaaaahhhh, WOO HOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Musically, I really liked Editors, and Kings of Leon really impressed me; very serious.

We also saw Hot Chip, and I can't get one the of their songs out of my head: "...over and over and over and over...."

Jay Z: Well, I don't know if he fits at Glasto or not, but he is defenetly not my cup of tea. Rubish!!

Taking a break....

And then it was Spain winning the eurocup. Amazing!!!!. We managed to find a place to see it. Dozens of us seeing the final in a 14" screen. It was good.

Celebrations for the victory gave a sore head monday morning. Having to pack things on that state was not fun. Anyway, headache was gone quickly and on monday I walked to Wells; nice place with beautiful Cathedral.

It was an experince to get into the Hills and suddenly, there was no any noise; such a contrast after 5 days of non stop music and people.

Yesterday, the plan was going all the way to Bath. On the map it was a long way, and it was it in reallity too, but I took quite well, and I was not too nackered when I got to the youth hostel. Yesterday walk run through easy walking hills, finally leaving behin the Somerset levels.

Me in Bath. With full gear on.

From Bath (a place that reminds me the city of London), today, I am planning to take the Costwald Way Northbound, and see where I can get.

I would like to add some more coment on the consequences of carrying the ad flag. It is a real pleasure; people don't stop smiling at me. It's thumbs up and horns from cars, as well as silent lips pronouncing "Walking Britain". Really motivating. I was also about to cause a couple of car accidents: people that take too long reading the advert at my back... oops!

That is all from the moment. I hope you are well and thank you for reading me.

Carlos

Esta va por Luis Enrique

2008-06-23T04:53:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am in Glastonbury, waiting for Paco and the Festival. After this update you'll probably not hear of me for a week or so. I'll update the blog again whenever I recover conciousness and main brain functions after the festival...

Last time I updated this space I was a bit short of time so there it goes a few more pictures and stories.

Before arriving to Taunton We had a wild encounter with an over excited horse. Lyndon grabbed a melon size rock, just in case.

Overexcited horse

Just after Lyndon left I manage to get some tickets for the cricket to see a twenty20 game. It rained, so all I had was 2 hours wait until the Vampires decided there would be no game. Great!

Somerset Cricket ground. It really looked like a horror film sky. Is that why they call them vampires.....?????

After that I went back (went back, funny) to the pub for more local juices and updating my blog. Not great atmosphere I should say. Lots of drunks. I left quickly.

On the next day the plan was walking all the way to Glastonbury. Looking at the map it looked like a challenging walk.

In the beginning I walked by the Taunton canal (not ugly but not too exiting scenery) towards west. After a while I took the path by the river tone, entering into the Somerset levels, that as far I undestand are flat farming states at just sea level. not very exiciting landscape again, but lots of birds to watch, and cows and bulls too. The path by the river soon became a sea of knettles, so I put my long trousers on and kept my arms lifted. The green sea became too thick to walk though so I decided to walk in the hills that run parallel, on country lanes.

A half decent shot, think. Maybe a bit dark.

Past the next ridge of hills descended to a the next valley, or level. It was much more attractive, an it was much more like the Somerset image I had in my head, less flat and a bit more hilly. By this time I was deciding that as I was not in a hurry I would had something to eat, and a local juice, and see the football game in the next pub with a screen. That decision converted the walk in a race, and it did not finish until i got to Street High Street (main road in a plac called Street, that is a couple of miles south Glasto).

It was 9 hours walk and my shoulders and feet were nackered. had my "juices" and hamburger, that tasted like heaven, and left the place, quickly as well, because the advertising flag can call attention of not very nice drunks as well as people willing to donate. They thought the flag was a toy, and I had to make clear it was not.

Left the pub and it began raining furiously. Not good when you are planning to wild camp. Waited for half an hour and luckily it sopped, found a nice field and slept.

This is what happens every morning when I put my rucksack on. Add "transforming-Hulk" to it!

On the next day I bought a couple of wellies for the festival and walked for an hour to the camping in Glasto. From then, and after the shower and a giant breakfast consisting in a pint of milk, another one of orange juice (real juice this time ;-) ), packet of chocolate biscuits, browney, two apples, and orange, and some bread and cheeses, I concentrated in phsychologically preparing for the game later in the night. How would face such a national challenge.

First sight of promissed land. Glastonbury Tor.

Eventually, and I mean eventually, everything went well, and after almost eating my jacket, we went through in the penalties!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The mentallity and soul of a nation changed for ever. A massive phsycollogical barrier destroyed: we also can be lucky when playing international football quarter finals against Italy. HA HA!!!

Went to bed with a huge smile and dreamt with Iker Casillas.

Today I am just taking it easy (life is beautiful and the sun is shining), I'll read the newspaper, starting from the back pages, of course, and will find out my way to the festival that apparently is not too close to the town.

I think i will go up to the Tor as well.

That is all from Gran Bretania. I hope you are well and remember that you can donate for East Anglia Children's Hospice at www.justgiving.com/carlosfl. Thank you.

Bye for now

Carlos

2008-06-20T08:01:00.000-07:00

Hi all

I am in Tauton, jus waiting to see my first cricket game ever. I am so excited. It is going to be a twenty20 game. Great!

Exeter Cathedral

Exeter was great: On saturday Spain won its game and met some fantastic people there. Fernando and company from Pravia (Asturias) and Madrid. And Natalie, a lovely greek origin student. I hope to see you sometime soon, Natalie.

As I was running too early to be on time in Glastonbury, I took it really easy, and on sunday I spolied myself going to the cinema and saw The Hulk. Good one!

Then I walked for two and a half hours to a camping just outside Exeter in Langford. From there I had 40 minutes walk to the pub, for my daily beers, and updating my diary. The beer engine is a very nice pub where they brew their own beer.

I seat down in the bar to write my diary as I was holding my cricket ball in my left hand. There were some cricketers in the pub and we spoke for a while. They had been playing that very evening. One of them knew Spain very well and had done the Santiago trail and knew

Asturias, Galicia, and other less known parts of Spain in the late 70s. He had some trouble with the Guardia Civil!!Toby and me in the Beer engine

They were really friendly and the locla cider flowed in large quantities. I walked 40 minutes back to the tent in beautiful moon light. Felt like flying.

On the next day I walked to Tiverton. First I followed the Exe river valley, but it quickly narrowed and got up to the hills on the west side of the river.

View of the Exe valley

From there back down again to the valley. Looking at the map I thought it would be the kind of landscape you find in the Arun valley by Arundel, a very wide valley, and flat (not very attractive to my taste), but it was a nice narrow one, with lots of vegetation.

On that night I stayed with Phil and his wife place in withleigh, a small village outside Tiverton. Their place is as strange as awsome, and they were extremely nice. Thanks to them now I have a flag that shows what I am doing, the details of my blog, and I am getting lost of donations since then. Thanks a lot for that.

Beautiful strange house in a gorgeous location.

Not only the donations: on tuesday morning a guy from the local Tiverton Gazzete spotted the flag, and I got an interview and a few pictures done. I am Tiverton famous now!!!!In Tiverton I met Lyndon and we walked together for a few days. On tuesday we walked following the Great Western Canal

Canal boat being towed by horse

We stayed in a camping and managed to watch Italy-France. Sorry, so sorry. We got Italy for the quarter finals. I am gutted. I know we can't beat Italy. Being beaten by Italy is like Paella, Sevillanas, la siesta, the sun in the mediterranean coast, or Picos de Europa in Asturias.... it is custome, tradition.... we are out, and I am traumatised even before the game....

Next day we alked in the Black down hills. Beautiful contours, with woods and fields, very much like the North Downs in my opinion. We visited the Wellington monument and slept in a B+B in Wellington and managed to see Spain victory... still gutted!!

Had a little bit of rain at the end of the day.

A copuple of English men discousing State affairs!!

On thursday went back up again to the Black Down hills and wondered up and down the hill in a way that was aquite a dishonour for this Orienteering champion. Got lost one or two times and did not manage to see the first quarter final of the Championship. Germany through.

The evening was lovely. I would say it was the first summer evening, and we camped in a random field. Cider flowed, and Lyndon got quite pissed.

Lyndon

In the morning just an easy walk to Taunton where thanks to the advertising flag we got free brakfats in a local Butcher place.

Lyndon is gone now but we will hopefully meet again in a few days.

I am out of time.

Bye for now.

Carlos

2008-06-14T03:16:00.000-07:00

Me in the Bodmin Moor, a few days ago

Hi all.

I am in Exeter. The weather is still being fantastic.

From Launceston I walked to the tiny village of Lydford. The wlk was nothing special excepting the last bit where there was a nice confers wood. The contrast in the border between the usual countryside and the high moorlan is big, just where the village is.

I really enjoyed my time in the village pub; pub quiz. I had just left Cornwall, I was just in Devon, and the gyu would not stop making jokes about Cronish people; amazing!

A cricket ball. My walking mate.

In the morning and set off early to cross the Dartmoor. First up the hill with no

vegetation and threatening clouds. When the path diasspear, i felt a bit lost to be honest. So all I did was take a bearing East, and walk. I should say at this point, that most of the moor is a military range area and that the red flags were up which meant they were shootting. But, according to the lady in the camping at Lydford, they use blanks.

So i walked thorough. It was hard, dificult. there were no paths, and there was plnty of water and bogs and really high grass really to walk on. Machine gun and rifle shooting in the distance.

Anyway, after 3 hours of hard walk, i was done. I left the moor passing by one of the red flags where there was a little hut where a farmer hired by the Defence mynister told me that they were actually using live fire...

Dartmoor threatening sky

Walking out of the moorland, though a path and then a narrow country lane to Chagford, was a pleasure: easy walking.

That night I stayed in Chagford. Beautiful village. I asked in the post office about where to stay in the nice lady sent to Roger and Eileen place; they are a lovely couple. The B+B is great, cheap, and the breakfast very good too.

Eileen and Roger

Leaving Chagford was a shame. Yesterday I walked from Chagford to the youth hostel outside Dunsford. The wakl by the river was a pleasure for the senses. Nice stream, and easy walking in a beautiful day. Reccomendable.

Awsome riverside walk between Chagford and Dunsford

Dunsford is a tiny village with just a pub, and a post office. I updated my diary as usual and had a couple: one ale, and a pint of pear swedish cider, wuite good by the way.

Resting time in the pub...

After a few minutes the pub was full with locals, and there was something that called my attention very much was a group of footballers in their 20s or 30s that came to the pub for a meal and a drink; half of them were women.

Today i left the hostel early. It is not noon yet and i am updating my blog in the library in Exeter. I jus met couple whose son has a girlfriend from Gijon. We should meet in there in late september.

Now, hostel, shower and lunch with Phill and wife. And ten hopefully another hat trick from Villa!!!

See you soon.

Carlos

Feet made for walking...

2008-06-10T04:04:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

Just after the last update and walked just outside newquay to a quiet family camp site in front of a beautiful beach. had dinner and went to the pub as every night ( I am starting to wonder if i am an athlete or an alcoholic...???).

There was live music. The performer, an Irish man called Alan was a f***ing (puto) genious. Good singer and better joker.

Onothe same night I met Will and Suzzanne. She was pregnat and due in september, just when I'll be finishing my walk.

That was the best night of the trip so far.

The next morning, another gorgeous day, I had the hardest day so far. I walked al the way to Bodmin, and it was a little bit too much, specially consideing that i am a little bit too early to get to Glastonbury on time.

Anyway, I went all the way to Bodmin, and stayed in a camping. I did not find the town particularly enchanting, or maybe the saturday night atmosphere did not fit my walking shorts and boots. Wrote my diary and went to bed in not the best mood.

Next day was very different. Another amazing sunny day, I walked into the Bodmin moor. The access to this natural place are very nice, with Streams and woods. Very nice.

And then I loved to walk in the moor. No paths, just open land where you can walk any where you like. Awsome!! I had a little problem in a bog (no photos of this one neither) and I arrived to Jamaica Inn stinking shit (or wahtever was in that swamp) a little bit.

The plan was finding a place to stay in Boventor, where the jamaica inn is, but not in the inn itself as it is a bit expensive. i did not find a place, so I stayed in the inn. Just for once...

The pear Rattler cider is even better than the normal one. Delicious!!

Yesterday i continued to walk in the moor: more beautiful streams, and opend land, plus fields with patched woods ( a landscape that i love). The walk was not too long this time but I had a little problem with a blister in a toe, so it was not too pleasent. I stayed in a camping again... well, camping: a field by Silvia's house, plus a house and a toilet. Has my first ever hose shower and that was good fun. Then dinner and, of course, pub. The Eliot Arms in Trigadillet.

Trigadillet is just outside Launceston

Today, and after planning the next couple of days on the maps, I decided to stay in Launceston. My toe need a rest and as i said i am very much in time for Glastonbury. And, I will have time for a proper warm up for the Spain game against Russia. VIva Espania!!!!!!!!!!

In the next days, dartmoor and then all the way straight to Glastonbury, where party awaits.

That is all for the moment. I am just ready to enjoy my rest day.

See you

Carlos

2008-06-06T08:58:00.000-07:00

Hola

Un comentario rapido en espaniol pa todos aquellos que les mosquee que no escriba en spanish. Pues resulta que no me apetece mucho escribirlo dos veces. Vosotros el que mas o el que menos chapurrea y entiende la lengua de cervantes. El que tenga mas problema aqui esta el traductor google: http://translate.google.com/

Supongo que entendereis que los ingleses tendrian mucho mas problema con el espaniol por que en general no hablan ni papa.

saludos.

Hi all. I am wiritting form Newquay in a lovely sunny day.... in a minute I'll be heading to the beach. Just after my last post it strated to rain and stayed in The old House Farm in Lelant. Highly recomendable place; nice room and good breakfast too. Adrian and Sue and family were very frinedly as well.

This is the room. Doing planning for the next few days

On Thursday I started walking at nine. Passed hayle and walked the three miles of its beach. Absolutly stunning

after that I walked through the coastal path to St. Agnes. The weather was good throught again.

This time i stayed in a camping just out side town. £6 a night and recomended.

Here I am chilling out after the effort

Pitch the ten and go in town. St is a beautiful village and I had a drink in St Agnes hotel. It was a glad surprise to see they had rattlers cider in it, so i did not have to wait until Bodmin moor for the heavenly liquid!!

Today i was a bit lazy and started walking at 10:30. Coastal path again. I met Clare and Bug. She was making the Cornish coast for charity.

Clare and me

I continued in the coastal path thought Parrenporth. Beautiful beachy village. Recmended for holliday makers. Then I left the coast to get to newquay quickly.

Now, I can't wait to get to the camping and the beach. Woohoo!!!!

See you soon. Carlos

Please donate in www.justgiving.com/carlosfl. Thank you.

St. Ives

2008-06-04T08:42:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

From Lands, on monday end I just walk for an hour, because I was too nackered to continue. I slept in White sands, in Sennen. Recomended lodge with good prices, huge breakfast an very friendly staff.

The first walking day, on tuesday, yesterday, was quite frustrating. Footpaths in this part of the country are not the same as in the southeast. Many of them were closed and not very well signed posted. More than once I had to go back on my footsteps and find a different way.

The weather was very nice though.

I have learnt that I need to plan everyday on the map carefully, otherwise I will lose lots of time.

I used the tent for the first time. (Camping in Madron, North east of Penzance). Easy to pitch, and not very roomy, but big enough for the rucksack and myself. The only problem i have is condensation: this morning the inside of the tent was completely covered in water droplets that i had to wipe out. Advice on this problem would be more than welcome. Holding breath O/N is not an option.

I did not sleep very well. Actually, it was pretty bad, I was nine hours in the tent and I don't think I slept more than 4. But i had enough rest because i don't feel bad today.

I am in St. Ives now. It took me almost 4 hours from Madron. Walking was more fluid and therefore much more satisfying. It rained for 20 minutes and i used the poncho for the first time. Putting it on was a Mr Bean 10 minutes scene. No pictures of this. I think I know how to put it on now. I will walk one or two hours more today til the next camping, and hope for a good rest tonight.

I feel well in every sense. Mood is good and I am just normal tired.

Tomorrow i will follow the coast, and hopefully do lots of Km as i am going quite slow.

That is all.

Let me know if you lilke the blog

Olaya: you were right; I have begun to abandon things. The rucksack is too f***ing (jodidamente) heavy!!

Take care and see you soon.

Carlos

Newquay

2008-06-02T02:13:00.000-07:00

Hi all.

I am alive and kicking... still.

I just arrived to Newquay, and the weather is very foggy. Well, at least it is not raining.
I am in an internet cafe and i think i won't be able to put any photo in this post as the computer does not recognise my camera.

I am very well. Nerviness is gone and I am very calm. I would say neutral.

I am quite tired after a night of waiting for bus, plane, and not sleep too much.

Soon i will take a train to Penzance, and then a bus to Land's End. Looking forward to find my hostel, or camping and have a shower and a proper rest.

that is all for the moment.

Carlos

Just before leaving...!!

2008-05-20T14:45:00.000-07:00

Hi all

Two weeks to go and counting.
Excitment and joy are becoming into worry and nerviness. But it´s fine, the only way is forward.

See you soon.

Carlos