*Apologies to Paul* :(
Hi all.
I am in Fort William. Today, after updating my blog, I will walk following the Great Glen W northeast towards Invergarry.
A&E
How could I begin? This is not one more blog update. I have just had one of the best weeks of my life. I have met some amazing people.
Last Wednesday, after the last blog update, I was just knackered. Did some shopping and took the bus to the hostel, that is 2 miles away form Fort William in the Nevis Valley, just at the base of Ben Nevis. I ate, had a shower, and headed to the pub for diary updating and beer.
It was then that I met Graemme and Lorraine. I had seen them before meeting. Graemme stood up for ordering something and stopped by my table and offered me a drink. Spoke for a while standing up. I was not feeling like talking, to be honest, and I really wanted to finish with the diary, but he invited me to joining them. I did, which was a great thing to do.
Lovely Graemme and Lorraine
They are form South Africa, and live in Nottingham. Came to England 10 years ago. They were on Holiday with their two boys and Lorraine's mum and dad, just in one of the bungalows next to the hostel. We had a good night on Wednesday, and we would probably meet the next day in the West Highland games.
Music in the games
On Thursday morning I met Michael in town. Before that I made a phone interview for La Nueva Espana, an Asturias regional newspaper. We did some shopping, had the first of the day, and headed for the games. There we met Malte (sorry if I misspell your name), a German guy that had walked the WHW at the same time as we did. We stayed together and saw the games.
I met Graemme, Lorraine and their two boys, and her mum too.
Scottish power in action!
The games finished quite late, around 9, and Michael, Malte and I were quite tired. "...yeah, time to go home,... I am knackered, ... yeah me too,.... well, actually, shall we have one?" It was, you know, one of those times when you go for one.... and another, and another... Beer, nice whiskeys.
Live music. Michale loved the singer! What a good night!
Having "one". Malte is actually less pissed than he looks like in the pic...
Time to go. Said goodbye to Michael and Malte, and got ready for the 50 minutes walk to the hostel. (no buses at that time of the night). But I got a taxi eventually. £8. Too much! From now on I walk, I thought.
Before leaving the taxi I saw a couple of girls chilling out outside the hostel. I recognised them. I had seen them the night before in the pub. My week began to change...
Said hello, we spoke for a minute, and sat down with them. Sonja and Ira. German.
They were wearing mountain gear (they've been at the top of Ben Nevis), barefoot, with their feet resting on their rucksacks. They were traveling in Scotland, planned to go to Edinburgh festival and Ireland.
They were really nice, and took out of one of their rucksacks one of those things you always carry when you climb Ben Nevis: a bottle of Greek sweet wine, and three glasses. I took out some bread, cheese and chorizo.
Sonja and Ira
We shared, the wine, the food and watched telly.
This encounter, really stroke me hard. Maybe it was nothing, maybe it was just the way I take things, but really hit me hard.
Since I moved to 17 April Close, in February, everything had been equilibrium, and peace, and knowing what I was doing, and sensibly happy. When I said goodbye to Ira and Sonja, everything changed, they left me feeling the blues, that kind of sweet sadness,... melancholy??. Once again, just maybe the way I take things...
They were kind of an inspiration, the way they were traveling, the way they were taking life on those very moments.
On Friday I woke up with the same down feeling. However, the guy in the mirror had a silly subtle smile on his face...
Many things went through this head.... strange ideas like keep on walking, when I get to Dunnet's Head, my way down to Horsham. I thought about what I want in life, where am I going from here?. At the same time I realised how much I was loving my time alone, my walk, my adventure, and I wonder if I really wanted to go back to "normal" life. How to go back, when you can live a never ending adventure? Even, if that means being alone, forever. Even if it means "dying alone"...
How do I want to live my life?
Adventure? Commitment?
I saw Ira and Sonja in the morning. "Bye".
I left the hostel and looked for Graemme and Lorraine bungalow, I knew they were leaving on Saturday, and I wanted to see them again. I found her mum and dad in it. They had gone for a walk. I left my number, maybe we could meet later for food and drinks.
I went to Fort William and sent some pictures to the newspaper, some e-mails, and back to the hostel for shower. Graemme had called. We met at 7 and went to the Ben Nevis Inn, a 200 years old refurbished barn. They invited me to a lovely dinner.
Lorraine, Graemme, Brad and Garreth.
It was a real pleasure to meet and talk to Brad (16) and Garreth (13). I will see what I can do with isopropanol Garreth, and Brad, you will have your chorizo iberico sometime in October.
Had a great time. I was not in the best mood, but they really cheered me up.
Brad, Garreth... I think he is falling asleep... :) and me.
The boys went to bed and I stayed with Lorraine and Garreth for the last one. Interesting conversation, and inspiring too. More than once I have been asked about the possibility of writing a book with all the stories, experiences and pictures from this walk. "Book" sounds like a too big word for me. I can write something, but that does not mean you can call it a book. Lorraine and Graemme were really inspiring in that respect, and made me think about it seriously.
On Saturday, more of the same feeling. For the first time in a long time, I was regretting a bit to be alone, I really needed someone to talk... just someone. I looked for a place in Fort William to write my diary; there were lots of things to write....
Volunteer's Arms?, a bit dodgy, sitting by the Loch?, after five minutes I needed a toilet, the next pub? too noisy, or the telly was on.
I ended up in a good atmosphere Bar/Restaurant in the High Street, and my week was about to change again. I was comfortable, and just in the right mood (moody) to write. After a while I went to the bar for the second (in that pub, not overall). While I was waiting for my pale ale, some began elbowing me. Some idiot in a hurry, I thought. When i turned, and looked slightly down, I could see this crazy girl, looking for a party really. She funnily apologised, and went somewhere else down the bar with her friend, to "annoy" someone else. I went back to my seat, and started to THINK how good it would be to chat and drink with these very attractive persons.
A pin size dancer from the Highland Games. Un espurin, diria yo!
From Glasgow, I decided that there would be no more THINKING when it is about approaching people. I immediately stopped THINKING and went to them. Introduced my self and offered my table. They were from New Zealand We sat together for a few minutes, but they were really in a hurry, "forced me to finish my beer" quickly.... wait a minute, "forced me...", that was a funny line!! Anyway, I finish it, and almost chased them to the pub down the road.
Just after getting there, they went to the toilet. I took care of my drink while reading the newspaper. After a few minutes on my own, I realized had not gone to the toilet, they had run away..... to be honest, I felt a bit upset. I really was not nasty with them or anything like that.... Had I had a shower that morning...????
Anyway, I walked back to the nice quite pub to keep on writing. Just on the doorstep, I saw the two run away girls inside. I turned 180 degrees and looked for another place.
I went in to the Ben Nevis bar. It was quite busy, but it looked like nice form the outside.
Left my stuff on the table at the bottom, went for a pint and as I walked back to the table noticed a group of people on my right. There was a blue eyed blonde, and two guys fighting by the fire exit... they were playing.
Ben Sally and Anna... far in the center of the pic. We met a few seconds later
Just when my bottom touched the chair, two of them stood up, and said, loudly: "oh my God, it is him, the guy that is Walking Britain....!!!!!" They came closer, shouting, everybody looking, "Am I in deep shit?", I thought.
If I had not gone to meet the "attractive" New Zealand girls, this would never had happened.
Sliding doors.
Ben, Sally and Anna... closer.
In the landscape above you can see Ben, Anna and Sally far away in the center of the image. That was the beginning of the Pennine Way, on the ridge on top of Edale Valley, the Sunday after my sheep shit feet picture. They saw my banner, we spoke for a minute. Gone, like so many other people.
Graemme and Claire.
They saw me in the pub, and remember my face. In the beginning I could not remember them, later on I did; first Ben and then the girls. And then I found the picture. Unbelievable. Some ask the other day. Do you believe in fate? I don't, but...
So, who is the lucky bastard????!
Ben Sally and Anna were with other five friends from the Manchester area (also Wigan and Newcastle): Craig, Claire, Graemme, Alexia and Sam. And Paul; I met him a few days later. They immediately asked me to join them for dinner.
Craig: doesn't he have an amazing pair of blue eyes??!
The blues was finished. My week changed for better. What can I say about them? First of all: I felt welcome, very much. They are an extraordinary group of friends. Among them, a bike rider that looks like Richard Ashcroft, and a model that looks like Cate Blanchett....
"Richard" (Ben) and "Cate" (Alexia)
...and talking about "Cate". She is the first model I have ever met. You know when they say in models contests, that is not only about having a pretty face, that you also have to be nice and have character.... bla bla bla bullshit. Well, it was true. Alexia is a cheerful, very expressive and caring person. Cheers for Alexia.... by the way, this is Paco...
So, after dinner, we went to the night club.... yes, there is a night club in Fort William. We danced, we drank, they played U2, but a fight stopped the song. Damm it!.
It was time to go back to the hostel, and the camping where they were staying very close to the hostel. Taxis.
They came, but there was no space for the Gladiator... I mean the Spaniard. So, they took my camera, and jumper, and diary, "and carried it for me". I had a run to the camping, but I could not find them.
Craig had just the time to put my camera on e-Bay, he was offered £300. Not enough!
Luckily, on the next morning, I was quick enough finding them in an area of the camping I had not looked, and recovered my stuff, including the camera. I was invited for bbq later in the evening.
Sam and Claire
Things had changed completely. I was so happy I had met this amazing people. I still felt a bit touched by "the blues" of the last few days, but it was very different now.
I went for a swim, and did some shopping. Back in the hostel got ready for the bbq.
We had a good night. Ate, and drink, and sang.
Camping and hostel are down there. From the path that took us to the summit.
The plan for the next day, Monday, was climbing Ben Nevis. Craig would join us for the walk. Craig will also walk with me after doing the Knoydart.
We were supposed to meet at 10 am, and for once, it wasn't the Spaniard the one that was late. Craig and I met at the hostel and walked to the camping; 10 minutes.
Climbing it!
We started walking at 12.... no rush. Craig, Sam and Graemme, did not come and went to the Nevis range for some bike descend.
Claire, having a rest, and relaxing.
The day was overcast. An hour before reaching the summit we went into the cloud. It became windy, and increasingly cold. The fog was very dense. In the summit, we got into the shed for lunch, otherwise it would have been bad to eat in that weather.
Having lunch in the shed at the top of The Ben.
We descended quickly and it was nice to be able to remove jumper and waterproofs.
And suddenly, going from seeing no more than 20 meters to kilometers with Glen Nevis down below.
A nice group picture, with Craig standing in the middle.
After the climbing (it felt easier to me than when I did it a few years ago for the Three Peaks Challenge), Craig and I stayed in the hostel for dinner, the rest went back to the campsite. We met for a drink later on. Just a quick one, we were tired.
I am quite happy with this one...
On Tuesday, yesterday, I was supposed to go with Sam, Graig, Graemme and Ben to the Nevis Range for some action photography. Before that, Graig (the other Craig) and I walked back to Fort William to plan where we were going to meet on the evening of the 26th. We bought some maps, did some shopping and Craig left to do some hiking on his own.
The camera likes Ben
Karen called me the other day. She will join me for the last bit of my walk, the last two couple of days, which is great. She needed to know when and where to book transport, so I had to do some planning.
I almost got hit in this one
It was not nice, I did not enjoy it, it was stressful. I was with all those maps in the Mountain Center, and it was really difficult to found a way through the Highlands. The tracks going in the right direction would normally end up in an unpassable cliff.
Graemme jumping. High ISO setting got him sharp.
Eventually, I think I found my way to Dunnet Head, and I will be meeting Karen in the north coast of Scotland in the 8th of September, which means We'll finish the walk together in the 10th.
I left the shop with all the maps I need from Fort William to Dunnet Head, really stressed, and facing something that I really did not like, the end of the walk. Went back to the Blues for a few hours: life, adventure...???
I took a bus to the Nevis Range, and met the boys for some action photography. Sam and Craig where waiting for their extremely expensive bike to be fixed. I went looking for Graemme and Ben. Most of the pics I took were crap, but for being the first time taking these kind of shots, i got a few half decent ones. See above.
I got a lift to hostel. Ate and fix the banner. I have a new one now. Printed and laminated. Same as the other one, although something is telling that not so well assembled as the one that Sally did. We'll see.
Blue eyes French painter??
I met my lovely Manc accent friends later on in the camping. Sam and Craig left to somewhere in Scotland, for more bike riding.
It was a great night.
We basically drank wine, and talked, and laughed. This is one of the things about them: laughter was always about to happen. I did not talk much, sometimes they went to quickly, so I would have enough with listening. Listen amazed. They are such good group of friends.
SO, WHO THE HELL IS THE LUCKY BASTARD???!!!!!!!!
I feel very lucky that I met them.
It was a night when the stars shined bright. Well, it was overcast, but I am pretty sure they were shining bright. Don't you think, Claire?
The boys. Graemme, me, Paul and Ben.
And when they do, and wine runs free, I can't help it, I get very very very very silly, and cheese, and songs does not stop coming to my head. Yesterday, it was and Amaral one.
Beauties!. I was the photographer. I am such a lucky bastard!
Amaral is a very good Spanish singer. It was "Como hablar" the song that was coming to my head yesterday night, while the stars shined.
"Como hablar": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6I9ezt5_pI
The song, you will not understand much guys, goes dedicated to all of you.
Thank you so much for a such a fantastic time.
I hope we meet sometime in the future.
Me and Claire.
This morning, full gear on, including banner, I bumped into Paul, Sally, Claire, Alexia and Anna. They were in Graemme's car. They stopped. More kisses and hugs, more good wishes, more goodbyes.
They left me trembling, slightly blue, almost crying, feeling the luckiest guy in the world.
It might be nothing, it might be just me, just the way I take things... it felt like heaven, felt like I would die a happy man then.
I have been almost 5 hours in front of the computer now. I am tired, and I still have to do today's walk.
I wonder what will the rest of the walk bring? How will I feel? How will reaching Dunnet Head be like,
... and the rest of my life...?
Bye now.
Carlos
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Sin duda la vida se compone de esos pequeños y,a veces, efímeros momentos que te hacen encontrarle sentido a la vida.
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